New to forum have a few questions
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 80
First, get the basic bolt on stuff done and out of the way. No sense adding a blower, H/C, etc. if you can't move the air. Second, decide which route you want to go- mean heads/cam setup on the LS1, blower setup using your LS1, or maybe you want to go with a different motor all together.
Take into account that with all the big upgrades that you do, you'll have to do the supporting mods- injectors, fuel pump, etc. the list goes on. If you decide on a blower- forging your bottom end could save you a lot of headaches down the road. If you're going that route and your budget allows, you could even bump up to a low compression 408 for example and really crank up the boost.
to give you an example, the last combo I had on my stock LS1 block was a set of 5.3 stage 3 Gallant Technical Performance heads and a Thunder Racing T Rex cam. Through the 6 speed and a 12 bolt w/ 4.30 gears it made 463 rwhp and 430ish tq. I also had a Racetronix intake fuel pump and 37# injectors and I if I remember right the car was tuned speed density. Those numbers were on a Mustang Dyno too, so if you like to play the numbers game you can take that into consideration.
With the rear ends, do it right the first time. I had a Strange 12 bolt first go around before I went with my FAB9. I also broke the 12 bolt as soon as the 408 went in. There are plenty of people that run 12 bolts that have no issues, but my advice would be to get a 9" if you can.
Like those guys said, it is possible to make 400 rwhp with just bolt ons, a cam and a tune. My first cam was a Thunder Racing 230/236 cam and put down 398 hp to the tires. I ended up selling it to my friend and it made 406 rwhp in his Z28.
Again, start off with the basics and progress from there..you can always get faster down the road.
Take into account that with all the big upgrades that you do, you'll have to do the supporting mods- injectors, fuel pump, etc. the list goes on. If you decide on a blower- forging your bottom end could save you a lot of headaches down the road. If you're going that route and your budget allows, you could even bump up to a low compression 408 for example and really crank up the boost.
to give you an example, the last combo I had on my stock LS1 block was a set of 5.3 stage 3 Gallant Technical Performance heads and a Thunder Racing T Rex cam. Through the 6 speed and a 12 bolt w/ 4.30 gears it made 463 rwhp and 430ish tq. I also had a Racetronix intake fuel pump and 37# injectors and I if I remember right the car was tuned speed density. Those numbers were on a Mustang Dyno too, so if you like to play the numbers game you can take that into consideration.
With the rear ends, do it right the first time. I had a Strange 12 bolt first go around before I went with my FAB9. I also broke the 12 bolt as soon as the 408 went in. There are plenty of people that run 12 bolts that have no issues, but my advice would be to get a 9" if you can.
Like those guys said, it is possible to make 400 rwhp with just bolt ons, a cam and a tune. My first cam was a Thunder Racing 230/236 cam and put down 398 hp to the tires. I ended up selling it to my friend and it made 406 rwhp in his Z28.
Again, start off with the basics and progress from there..you can always get faster down the road.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
April 2011 ROTM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,022
From: Tokeland, Washington
ROTM Winner's Club
thread is getting old,,, this is the man i would listen to, cost is not to bad till you get to a point then goes up big time. rear ends are rated at 350 hp but like said will handle more or not. cbr what kind of hp are you making now and how much money into it?
Start with the V8 car do not try to buy a V6 model and then swap it out. This has been talked about a lot and its just cheaper to buy the V8 car to start with. The T56 (6 speed) is a great transmission and can handle 500 very easy with just a good clutch. The stock 10 bolt rear is another story and any thing past 400 rwhp will just be a ticking time bomb until it goes out or your upgrade to a 12 bolt or 9 inch.
As for power you can make 400 plus at the wells with just bolt ons and cam. If your still looking for more a good head/cam package with intake, headers, exhaust, and a good tune should get you well into the 450 plus range with no problem.
The LS1 is a great motor and there is no need to swap any other motor into the F-body unless you are going crazy power full. There are a few guys that are making right around the 480 horse mark on stock bottom ends NA and a tone more pushing 550 and up with nitrous or forced induction however that is going to be the limit with out forged pistons and rods. I dont recommend going past 500 on stock bottom ends on forced induction and nitrous set ups because you are pushing the stock ring glands and facing catastrophic damage.
Now if your talking about a fully build LS1 then the sky is the limit. Some guys are pushing 700 horses forged forced inducted and nitrous all popular 347 set ups. While there are even a few NA guys pushing mid 500s on ringing in at 383.
One thing you want to keep in mind is durability. If your going to run a Supercharger on a stock LS1 i would keep boost low, add meth or alky for extra protection and keep power under 500 rwhp.
Personally i would start small with the basics. (LS6 or FAST intake manifold, Headers, Y-pipe, exhaust, mild 22x or 23x cam, good valve springs with harden push rods, and a good dyno tune) I would say this should cost less then 3500 bucks from a good shop to install why you are way and you should see well over 400 at the wheels with no problem. If you still have some extra cash and want a little more then patriot performance LS6 heads would be a great investment at 1300 bucks and will push you to around 440 at the wheels with no problem.
But thats just my 2 cents. Fully bolted with a head/cam package and a good tune will run mid 11s all day long and kill 99.8% of cars on the street. Plus you will still have the drive ability of a stock car with the same full mileage until you nail the pedal. I would guess you would invest about 5500 total.
I hope this helps.
As for power you can make 400 plus at the wells with just bolt ons and cam. If your still looking for more a good head/cam package with intake, headers, exhaust, and a good tune should get you well into the 450 plus range with no problem.
The LS1 is a great motor and there is no need to swap any other motor into the F-body unless you are going crazy power full. There are a few guys that are making right around the 480 horse mark on stock bottom ends NA and a tone more pushing 550 and up with nitrous or forced induction however that is going to be the limit with out forged pistons and rods. I dont recommend going past 500 on stock bottom ends on forced induction and nitrous set ups because you are pushing the stock ring glands and facing catastrophic damage.
Now if your talking about a fully build LS1 then the sky is the limit. Some guys are pushing 700 horses forged forced inducted and nitrous all popular 347 set ups. While there are even a few NA guys pushing mid 500s on ringing in at 383.
One thing you want to keep in mind is durability. If your going to run a Supercharger on a stock LS1 i would keep boost low, add meth or alky for extra protection and keep power under 500 rwhp.
Personally i would start small with the basics. (LS6 or FAST intake manifold, Headers, Y-pipe, exhaust, mild 22x or 23x cam, good valve springs with harden push rods, and a good dyno tune) I would say this should cost less then 3500 bucks from a good shop to install why you are way and you should see well over 400 at the wheels with no problem. If you still have some extra cash and want a little more then patriot performance LS6 heads would be a great investment at 1300 bucks and will push you to around 440 at the wheels with no problem.
But thats just my 2 cents. Fully bolted with a head/cam package and a good tune will run mid 11s all day long and kill 99.8% of cars on the street. Plus you will still have the drive ability of a stock car with the same full mileage until you nail the pedal. I would guess you would invest about 5500 total.
I hope this helps.
Overdrive Member
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 4,042
From: IL
I am not sure a hot cam is going to result in the same gas mileage... 
Heads, I'm not sure either...
Heads, I'm not sure either... But thats just my 2 cents. Fully bolted with a head/cam package and a good tune will run mid 11s all day long and kill 99.8% of cars on the street. Plus you will still have the drive ability of a stock car with the same full mileage until you nail the pedal. I would guess you would invest about 5500 total.
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