OK so i have a 91' camaro that i just bought 3 months ago in good condition. I recently had the starter replaced.

My question:
When i have my car in idle or when im at a light the engine revs it self and the RPM dial goes from 10 to 15/20. Is this bad? How do i fix it?

Also,
after slowing down or stopping i don't have good acceleration. It takes a while for me to speed up How can I fix this?

Thanks so MUCH!!

 

Sounds like something is not coming down as fast as your throttle pedal. So it hangs up and keeps the revs high. Then you try to accelerate and something is not opening with your pedal moves.

Do you have full throttle if you step on the pedal? It may not open all the way and then there is throttle hanging up and not an air emissions deal.

 

kind of sounds like a vacuum leak to me...

 

Does the idle run up to 1500, 2000 rpm, or does it actually rev up and down from the "normal" idle speed?

If so, I had a similar issue myself- I don't recall exactly what all it was about, something about carbon buildup or something, but I did end up taking it to a mechanic and spending $1000 to fix it.

Sorry I'm not of much help :/

 

Sure you are, Saint. I think they remove the unit and de-carbon the passage holes. I've seen them cake up like they do a 2-stroke port. So, if you say carbon, I say it moves air is the emissions to exhaust something to clean.
In other words, there are a lot of closed loops that belch internally as in, "If it is going out the exhaust, then for every action at that port, there is an opposite and equal reaction to carbon up the A side is you were pumping fresh air into the B chamber to re-fire the unspents is all she is doing. There is your carbon build up is shuts down a sensor called, the EGR (exhaust gas regulator/regurgitator/recirculator/Re-Fire My Un-Spent.

 

The EGR sensor simply detects whether the EGR valve is working correctly or not. There won't be any carbon buildup on the sensor itself. That said the EGR valve itself can get carbon buildup on it and start leaking (the valve could also be going bad and not making a seal anymore). You can try to pull the EGR valve and clean the carbon off with carbeurator cleaner, if that doesn't fix the issue you may have to buy a new EGR valve.

 

hey hey thanks for all your input! I will def. check the carbon buildup!

Also about the acceleration, its getting WORSE. When i push the gas off start it takes it forever to get up to 50mph and while the mph is increasing its also hesitating. I don't know if that makes perfect sense, but im not sure what is wrong!

Thanks again!

 

Sensor wise, there are other units that work the fuel map. For example, you cannot remove the 02 without throwing a code. Simply because the loop to the TPS and crank speed tie in as 3 ground wires or 3 events tied to each other.

So, you have this linear lag you feel where the is a stumble of someone is not opening when you throttle up. It could be a sub-throttle or actuator that is hanging closed and cannot follow your rise in rpm. Like a restrictor plate covering something is you run out of air.

One thing at a time. So I need to make sure, 95slVeer tongue devil will correct me if the carbon is on one side of the wall, is it not covering that whole wall on all 4-Sides?

I am going to show you proof [see photo] that if it not on the other side [lookt at closed end or the plug], then carbon has to stop at a wall to be a clean azz a whistle.
This unit is triple looped? Meaning, there is a pump that stays clean? For every reaction there is a carbon deposit on each fire off.

Show me that tunnel that is not feeding some sort of carbon to the EGR.

Here is a carbon bubble specimen. Note the wall is coated with carbon. Note the exhaust plug is new looking with a clean air bubble that explodes or ricochets clean off of the back.

My question to you: Is the EGR designed like this plug? That means that there is no carbon on the other side is the EGR is locked down and nothing can get past the plug = But the walls sure are carbon'd up.

OK, now do you spray one side of the EGR, or do you take it apart and really de-carbon the plug port holes too and both sides of the EGR. Get it?

1/2Azz'd cleaning are 1/2Truths Gaylore! Gate Her Done! One thing at a time is clean the EGR then run the floorboard one more time is TEST- TING ~ T- E -S- TESting.

Am I doing my homework is trip my abstract up is clock your every sentence tell me how the OTTO cycle cycles.

 

^ you could hold the key to the universe..... but it doesnt help anyone if you say it in Germanech......

I think you may have schizophrenia...

 

Uh...I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to tell me here. I'm not denying that the EGR will get carbon buildup in it, and yes to clean it fully and properly it should probably be completely disassembled. With that said, it usually isn't the part of the valve that actuates that gets clogged, it's usually carbon buildup on the sealing surface that is allowing exhaust gas to pass into the intake when the ECM hasn't calibrated for it, thus resulting in poor idle, acceleration etc. due to an incorrect mixture. The EGR valve is driven by the EGR silenoid with is pulse width modulated via grounding when triggered by the ECM. The computer detects whether the EGR valve is opening when it should either by an decrease in vacuum if the car operates via MAP, a decrease in air flow if it operaties via MAF, or on a rarer occasion via a temperature sensor since exhaust is warmer than the incomming air. The EGR system does not have it's own proprietary sensor unless it's a temp sensor (1991 did not have the temp sensor). This would lead me to believe the EGR valve is opening as it should because he has not reported his SES light being lit. The reason I recommended simply removing and cleaning the valve surface is because it's quick (15 minutes to remove/replace the EGR and some time letting it soak in cleaner) and it's cheap. As far as the rest of what you said...it's really hard to reply when I can't understand your posts.