Chrome Vs. Moly piston rings
So I'm finalizing my purchases and I was just wondering if anyone had any preferences/reasons for moly vs. chrome rings. These are the two sets I was thinking of:
Sealed Power Moly
and
Pefect Circle Chrome
If I just had the money to blow I would be going after the rings I had in the old engine just .030 over:
Total Seal Gapless
If I go with an I beam over H beam rod I can afford the gapless rings. I always had good compression and vacuum with those.
Sealed Power Moly
and
Pefect Circle Chrome
If I just had the money to blow I would be going after the rings I had in the old engine just .030 over:
Total Seal Gapless
If I go with an I beam over H beam rod I can afford the gapless rings. I always had good compression and vacuum with those.
I've got moly rings in my engine, and it performs fine. I have experienced (through others) where the chrome rings take a lot longer to break in, or in some cases never do break in quite right, which caused a blowing oil problem.
With whatever rings you go with, you want to follow a strict break-in procedure and run the engine under a load (drive it) to pressurize the rings against the cylinder walls.
You should avoid doing an "in the garage" engine break in, as that doesn't seat the rings to the walls properly.
With whatever rings you go with, you want to follow a strict break-in procedure and run the engine under a load (drive it) to pressurize the rings against the cylinder walls.
You should avoid doing an "in the garage" engine break in, as that doesn't seat the rings to the walls properly.
Last edited by Camaro 69; Apr 10, 2010 at 10:56 AM.
Yeah, when we did the first set of gapless rings in there we did a good bit of load break in. I'm just thinking about going with a moly set now and be done with it. Sending back the rods and pistons and going from the 5.7 to 6 inch rod setup. Hopefully will be able to drop the block off not this Monday but the following.
Moly rings when used with the correct cylinder finish and a round bore give a faster break in and the moly face holds a small amount of oil to give a better seal and less friction, the moly also takes heat and rpm better. for street engines or rering blocks that have imperfect bores, cast iron is the ticket!
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