SLP Bilsteins made my 3.8L feel like a new car!
#31
I think you mean the spring perch -- you reuse that from your stockers, along with the spring isolator, dust-boot and integrated bump-stop. Any metal that looks rusty -- wire brush it and spray it with some rust inhibitor enamel -- you can buy the cheap (<$3 can) ColorPlace Wal-Mart house brand -- guarantees to stop rust for two years.
Oh, yes, the snap ring IS built into the Bilstein shocks -- now that I realized what you were asking.
Soak that nut with some PB Blast, but my driver side stock nut stripped, and was fused to the mount isolator metal, so with the spring compressors still on, I ended up using a small sledge and just broke the stock shock rod off just below the nut. What a pain in the *** that thing was. Passenger side was already off since the mount failed and had to be replaced...
Use a screwdriver or similar with a hammer and knock that endcap off the stock shock, careful not to damage the dustboot. Then you can easily knock off the spring perch with a rubber mallet.
When you redo your shock mounts, after you get the new stuff all tightened up, before you put it back in the car -- goop a bunch of marine grease or similar in the cup where the shock top & nut are to help stop the rusting. Water is known to collect up there, especially on the passenger side!
Oh, yes, the snap ring IS built into the Bilstein shocks -- now that I realized what you were asking.
Soak that nut with some PB Blast, but my driver side stock nut stripped, and was fused to the mount isolator metal, so with the spring compressors still on, I ended up using a small sledge and just broke the stock shock rod off just below the nut. What a pain in the *** that thing was. Passenger side was already off since the mount failed and had to be replaced...
Use a screwdriver or similar with a hammer and knock that endcap off the stock shock, careful not to damage the dustboot. Then you can easily knock off the spring perch with a rubber mallet.
When you redo your shock mounts, after you get the new stuff all tightened up, before you put it back in the car -- goop a bunch of marine grease or similar in the cup where the shock top & nut are to help stop the rusting. Water is known to collect up there, especially on the passenger side!
Liberty, Do the Bilstein fronts come with the snap ring installed on the shock body? I've taken apart my old original shocks/springs and pulled the spring seat off the shock. Just wondering if I need to fight with the snap ring too...
BTW, this is what one of my originals looked like when I removed it. As soon as I saw the top nut condition I moved v e r y c a r e f u l l y to hold it away from me and place it in safe place in my outdoor shed. It sure looked like a hand grenade with the pin pulled to me.
BTW, this is what one of my originals looked like when I removed it. As soon as I saw the top nut condition I moved v e r y c a r e f u l l y to hold it away from me and place it in safe place in my outdoor shed. It sure looked like a hand grenade with the pin pulled to me.
#32
#33
NO, I'm talking way more than just those ballons.
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspen...d-level-1.html
http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspen...d-level-1.html
#35
I've talked to a lot of guys that run these here in tucson, mostly autox, and they swear they work better than any spring/shock combo they've tried. And they have an upgraded version of the struts/bag for the front that's got 36 rebound and 24 compression clicks from soft to firm. Now that's some frick'n adjustment. It's a lot of money but it's all rebuildable, expensive at first but if you plan to keep the car forever I think it would be worth it. My problem fitting that in my car would be room. I would have to get a custom tank made or use the roll cage as one. But just think of how finely tuned you could get with it.
#38
So my RS' door sticker has the "GU6" RPO code, so it's a 3.42 gear, according to:
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ve_axles.htm#G
Oddly enough, my SS 'Vert has GU5 - 3.23 gears -- WTF?!
Apparently G80 indicates the LSD, but I don't have that...
I never really understood how new LCAs help traction, anyone able to explain better why the stockers don't do the job? Is it just flex -- how do the bushings do much?
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ve_axles.htm#G
Oddly enough, my SS 'Vert has GU5 - 3.23 gears -- WTF?!
Apparently G80 indicates the LSD, but I don't have that...
I never really understood how new LCAs help traction, anyone able to explain better why the stockers don't do the job? Is it just flex -- how do the bushings do much?
Look into some UMI LCAs if you're wanting some traction assistance Better bushings will help the stockers but they just don't prevent wheel hop well enough and it seems to me like they just don't keep the rear down at all. Felt like mine just wanted to jump right off the pavement. Do you have the 3.08/3.23 open rear? If so it won't be as much as a problem for ya but if you get a LSD, you will hate your stockers haha.
Last edited by libertyforall1776; 10-26-2010 at 08:39 PM. Reason: updated LSD option code; SS gears
#40
Your RS is a Y87 equipped car. Came with 3.42 gears, tighter steering, dual exhaust, and a limited slip. Your SS has limited slip as well but I'm guessing by the 3.23 gear ratio you have an auto. Autos had 3.23, Manuals had 3.42 =)
It's all about how they flex. The stockers don't really flex correctly. Bushings definitely help but they can only do so much with a steel pole (literally lol) attached to them
It's all about how they flex. The stockers don't really flex correctly. Bushings definitely help but they can only do so much with a steel pole (literally lol) attached to them