I think you mean the spring perch -- you reuse that from your stockers, along with the spring isolator, dust-boot and integrated bump-stop. Any metal that looks rusty -- wire brush it and spray it with some rust inhibitor enamel -- you can buy the cheap (<$3 can) ColorPlace Wal-Mart house brand -- guarantees to stop rust for two years.

Oh, yes, the snap ring IS built into the Bilstein shocks -- now that I realized what you were asking.

Soak that nut with some PB Blast, but my driver side stock nut stripped, and was fused to the mount isolator metal, so with the spring compressors still on, I ended up using a small sledge and just broke the stock shock rod off just below the nut. What a pain in the *** that thing was. Passenger side was already off since the mount failed and had to be replaced...

Use a screwdriver or similar with a hammer and knock that endcap off the stock shock, careful not to damage the dustboot. Then you can easily knock off the spring perch with a rubber mallet.

When you redo your shock mounts, after you get the new stuff all tightened up, before you put it back in the car -- goop a bunch of marine grease or similar in the cup where the shock top & nut are to help stop the rusting. Water is known to collect up there, especially on the passenger side!

 

Something like this?:



http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=113&ModelID=7

 

NO, I'm talking way more than just those ballons.

http://www.ridetech.com/store/suspen...d-level-1.html

 

^ Damn, that's a lot of $ to spend for what benefit -- might as well just buy Konis...

 

I've talked to a lot of guys that run these here in tucson, mostly autox, and they swear they work better than any spring/shock combo they've tried. And they have an upgraded version of the struts/bag for the front that's got 36 rebound and 24 compression clicks from soft to firm. Now that's some frick'n adjustment. It's a lot of money but it's all rebuildable, expensive at first but if you plan to keep the car forever I think it would be worth it. My problem fitting that in my car would be room. I would have to get a custom tank made or use the roll cage as one. But just think of how finely tuned you could get with it.

 

^ It BETTER work for that price -- I would run it by Strano first, just for perspective...

 

Well it would be a few years if ever, so much stuff to do before I would need a better suspension anyway.

 

So my RS' door sticker has the "GU6" RPO code, so it's a 3.42 gear, according to:
http://www.vibratesoftware.com/html_...ve_axles.htm#G

Oddly enough, my SS 'Vert has GU5 - 3.23 gears -- WTF?!

Apparently G80 indicates the LSD, but I don't have that...

I never really understood how new LCAs help traction, anyone able to explain better why the stockers don't do the job? Is it just flex -- how do the bushings do much?

 

From my understanding it's all flex, and the bushings help control that flex also and lateral movement.

 

Your RS is a Y87 equipped car. Came with 3.42 gears, tighter steering, dual exhaust, and a limited slip. Your SS has limited slip as well but I'm guessing by the 3.23 gear ratio you have an auto. Autos had 3.23, Manuals had 3.42 =)

It's all about how they flex. The stockers don't really flex correctly. Bushings definitely help but they can only do so much with a steel pole (literally lol) attached to them