Hey all, I'm doing a rear Drum to Disc Swap with a kit off an LS1 from http://www.tacreationsusa.com
But a few questions on this '95 3.4L project:

* What differential fluid do you recommend? (never changed this fluid myself)
* What gasket material is recommended for the axle cover?
* Any words to the wise/lessons learned from others who have done this job?

I'm using this guide -- anyone notice anything that might not be correct or is unclear here?:
http://forum.camarov6.com/showthread.php?t=63738

Thanks in advance!

 

are you swaping parts over or swaping out the entire diff? swaping the entire rear end is very easy and straight forward. as for sealant use RTV, and for fluid im running amsoil 75w-90 w/ the gm LSD aditive. heres a good site to find what fluilds to run. http://www.amsoil.com/scripts/runisa...msoiloaf:index

 

I toyed with the idea, but figured it wasn't worth swapping the whole diff. on such an old car, so just the parts -- ebrake cables, calipers, pads, rotors, mounting brackets, rubber hoses.

 

i did it, and really only takes 1-1.5 hr.

 

1.5 hr my behind -- maybe if you have all the exact tools ready, and no bolts that strip and the hard brake lines come out easily, and no trips to the store for bolts, wrenches, replacement hard brake lines & bender, etc. -- fat chance on my '95!

Why do the instructions say that the caliper bolts should be towards the back of the car?! On my '01 SS, the calipers are towards the front of the car. Why does this matter?

Also, supposedly 3.5 quarts of diff. fluid is spec for the '95 3.4L -- but after around 2, it started overflowing from the filler hole... How are you supposed to get more in there?! Is there a replacement screw/plug that allows it to be injected in via one-way valve or something?

Oh, and how to get those e-brake cables free??? What a pain in the ****. :-(

TIA

 

well i do have the right tools for the job, and i live in wisconsin were everything is rusty and it took 1.5 at most. are you sure the diff is empty, the only way to fill it is through the fill hole until it comes out, then its full. are you taking the cable off at the center pull under the tunnel? its easy, theres i think 3 fingures per cable end that need to be bent in(just use a small flat head) then it will slide out of the holder.

 

Update: I got the cables prongs through that metal holder, but the cable end caps are fused in the center pull holder -- tried some PB Blast -- but won't break free -- any suggestions? Maybe I'll try a blow torch...

I unluckily had a hard brake line break removing one from the old drum backing plate -- I tell ya, it's always something! :-(

The diff. was drained -- had to, in order to get the c-clips out... Advance Auto claimed my diff. takes 3.5 quarts, but I barely got 2 quarts back into it via the fill hole -- yes it started coming out at 2 quarts...

Did you put your calipers facing the front or rear of the car?

 

Since you PB'd the cables yesterday, you should be able to work the cable and center pull back and forth and it should break loose. My calipers are on the rear. click on the link at the bottom of my post to see a picture of the diff.

 

Does it matter if the caliper is on the front or rear? Did the location change from towards the back to front on the 98-02 from the 93-97? My '01 has calipers on the towards the front in the rear.

 

im not sure, my setup is stock. thats the way it came.