Are you saying the dark green wire with the white stripe does NOT have 12 vdc on it for a few seconds after switching on the ignition? After about 2 seconds that would disappear and become 0 vdc. But you can repeatedly switch the key to get another 2 seconds each time.

To bypass the whole VATs module, you could use one of these little signal generators: Baker Electronix - GM VATS Bypass

The VATs module reads the key's resistance value and, if ok, sends a signal to the PCM, which in turn will turn on the fuel pump relay for 2 seconds until the engine starts, and then continuously after that. The signal generator module above would make that signal that the VATS module sends to the PCM. I would expect the VATs signal to make for a very rapidly flashing test lamp when connected. An ordinary multimeter would show 2-3 volts dc.

 

The green wire has no power at all and im sure its not split and the sig from the anit teft is sending the 3v to the ecm and it goes away whe u remove the key im going to cheack tbe green wire tomrrow for cuts in the wire any more ideas after that

 

I think the wireing is all messed up

 

Anyy one have a link to a website thatbtell me what pins are what so I can rewire the whole car

 

You can get the 94 service manual and some other years here--> http://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti

Have you ever connected a ground or 12v to the green wire or to the fuel pump relay directly? That can fry the pcm output to the relay. I'm not talking about the prime wire, that is ok.

 

Nope but I got the relay clicking now but stll no injector

 

I think I just need a new harnnes

 

Any one know any one geting rid of a v6 engine harnness