You can go to here and figure what the magic number is, theory wise. Your results will differ, but a start.
ET-MPH-HP Calculator

As Craby suggests, stick with 12-bolt design as it is the least power-absorbing design compared to others, ie, 9-inch, Dana 60, Dana 44, etc.

 

Update!

I finally broke down and bought another rear end. Local salvage yard wanted $325 for used, 3.42 LSD rear! I told them too much and drove 60 miles to a U-pull it yard that charges $100 for any rear end. Only one I found was a LSD but it was hit hard in the rear so instead of chancing having a bent axle tube, I went back to the local salvage yard and haggled a little on the price. I ended up paying $265 with tax for a 3.42 LSD, still too much in my book, but I wanna get the car to the track and those 2.73s just weren't gonna cut it!




I have also run into an issue and some one else with a '93 is gonna need to help. My IAC is either wired wrong or incorrectly working. I put a new plug end on it and did one wire at a time to match up A B C and D wires correctly. Well, I tested it the other day, and according to the book and shbox, there should be between 40-80 Ohms of resistance between A and B, and C and D and infinite between A and C and B and D.

Mine is showing 100 Ohms between A and D and roughly the same between B and C while showing infinite between A/B and C/D. The book and shbox both show the wires being green/white tracer, green/black tracer, blue/white tracer and blue/black tracer....mine are all green with white/black tracers. Is there any way to verify which wire is what so I can make sure I wired it correctly?

As of now the car idles a little low 500-650 rpms and depending on temperature you gotta give her throttle to keep from dying. I don't wanna replace the IAC unless I know I have it wired right.

 

is the tps set right. whats in this engine, is it stock?

 

is the iac new and did you set it?

 

TPS is showing 0.5 volts, key on engine off, as well as when idling. IAC is same one before the cam swap, so I haven't touched it other than pulling it out to see if it was dirty or not. Looked clean so I screwed it back in. The wiring is what's getting me. I don't wanna buy a new IAC if it's not the problem, and I just mixed up the wiring. Car doesn't throw a DTC either for anything.

The idling seemed to be better today, staying up in the 750ish range. I'll get a video if it does things again.

 

New rear is primered!

Actually, it's painted too, but I apparently forgot to get a pic of that. It'll be in the car tomorrow. Shouldn't have any trouble since the all the bolts with the exception of the torque arm a brand new.

I'm sure I'm not the first, but came up with an easy way to clean the axle tubes.

 

[/quote]I have also run into an issue and some one else with a '93 is gonna need to help. My IAC is either wired wrong or incorrectly working. I put a new plug end on it and did one wire at a time to match up A B C and D wires correctly. Well, I tested it the other day, and according to the book and shbox, there should be between 40-80 Ohms of resistance between A and B, and C and D and infinite between A and C and B and D.

Mine is showing 100 Ohms between A and D and roughly the same between B and C while showing infinite between A/B and C/D. The book and shbox both show the wires being green/white tracer, green/black tracer, blue/white tracer and blue/black tracer....mine are all green with white/black tracers. Is there any way to verify which wire is what so I can make sure I wired it correctly? [quote]
IAC is a stepper motor and your present IAC, if connector is unplugged at measurement, appears to be incorrect for the model needed.
A-B and C-D are two motors.

The only guaranteed method in checking wires is to go back to the PCM connector and ohm out each wire to the IAC plug and label them as such for correction.

The low RPM is because of base rpm - no IAC control.
Also, follow instructions setting base RPM and then the PCM should be dumped, as in kill power for 3-7 minutes, then plugged back in and drive the vehicle for PCM to relearn.
Ensure the IAC does work before doing above.

 

Well got the rear end in yesterday. She really gets up and goes now. I gotta figure out the brakes now because they don't seem to catch until almost to the floor. I never disconnected the lines or hoses, so I don't think air got in. I'm gonna work on this if the rain lets up.

I'll have to do as you said Everett and check the IAC wires back at the computer. I thought I remembered of a way to check by seeing if it moved in and out, but honestly don't remember.

The car developed a misfire last night during test drive as well. Just can't seem to get it running as it should any more.

 

Misfire is gone now, but developed a drive line vibration. So up in the air it goes again.

Had it weighed too. 3500lbs flat with me in it and roughly 12.5-13 gallons of gas, which is about 75lbs in itself.

 

Got a present from UPS. RaceTronix fuel pump and wiring harness kit. I honestly don't need it yet, but planning for the future. Next on the list is going to be O2 conversion kit to swap over the heated sensors, which hopefully cures my misfire problem, since it came back. Trans will need replaced soon. 2nd gear is slowly on it's way out.

Pic!