Chaotic's Progress Thread
#1046
Poly binds in turns -- not the best choice -- you would be better off with poly and rod ends for axle articulation. I just swapped bushings to 1LE/Moog bushings which are solid compared to the stockers with holes in them... Tubular is not necessarily an upgrade, unless you drag race -- they are NOT for handling!
read:
LCA FEM Analysis Comparisons
"They are much stiffer when the arms twist which adds to the car's roll stiffness. This adds harshness to your car's ride. Don't anyone try to convince you that harshness equals better handling. This excess stiffness places additional loads on the arm mounts on the chassis and on the axle housing which may over time initiate cracking.
Since polyurethane is prone to cold flowing it changes shape over time leading to the famous squeak. Since the arm needs to twist and the bushing eventually gives way, clunking occurs."
read:
LCA FEM Analysis Comparisons
"They are much stiffer when the arms twist which adds to the car's roll stiffness. This adds harshness to your car's ride. Don't anyone try to convince you that harshness equals better handling. This excess stiffness places additional loads on the arm mounts on the chassis and on the axle housing which may over time initiate cracking.
Since polyurethane is prone to cold flowing it changes shape over time leading to the famous squeak. Since the arm needs to twist and the bushing eventually gives way, clunking occurs."
#1047
With the new panhard bar and control arms, the suspension felt better in corners. Massey told me the stock stuff would have play in it in hard cornering. The rear end feels more planted. And the reason I bought the stuff is because all my bushings were shot. And it was all really cheap.
#1048
I have to say I'm with Liberty on this. I even remember Gorn telling Socom that tubular LCAs would put too much strain on the mounting brackets. If your bushings were shot, of course the new parts were going to feel better. It would feel a lot better if you put new bushings in too. The only reason to go with tubular LCAs is if you're having traction issues; you don't really need an adjustable panhard bar unless you have lowering springs as well. I picked up my adjustable panhard bar for really cheap from a friend and he also gave me a set of tubular LCAs with it but I never put them on because of this.
The springs and sway bars are going make the biggest difference in keeping the rear from moving around.(especially the sways, hence the name) I did all the springs, shocks and sway bars before I put the adjustable panhard in and honestly I couldn't tell a difference with the new or stock. I could tell a HUGE difference with just the sways, and then even more so with the shocks/springs.
The springs and sway bars are going make the biggest difference in keeping the rear from moving around.(especially the sways, hence the name) I did all the springs, shocks and sway bars before I put the adjustable panhard in and honestly I couldn't tell a difference with the new or stock. I could tell a HUGE difference with just the sways, and then even more so with the shocks/springs.
#1050
You have done the upper and lower control tubular? Does the lower arms have the pivot type bushings in them? As you can imagine as the car tilts the lower control arms need to flex, a tubular control are will not flex so it needs so the forward bushings need to have pivots. If not you can damage the frame where the control are connects.