I drove it about 12 miles last night, and it came on again on the return trip when I stepped on it a bit on the freeway. I cleared the code again, and I drove the car to work this morning with no issues. I think the code is only tripped when I'm a bit harder on the throttle, as in over 50% tip-in. I plan on picking up a new solenoid after work today and throwing it on tonight.

 

Before you buy it, double check your gas cap is on right and tight and the seal is all good. That can set a EVAP code as well but usually as a description along the lines of a leak.

 

I'll check, but would that be affected by throttle input/engine load?

 

It's possible. Vacuum decreases as the throttle is pressed and if I'm not mistaken that solenoid uses vacuum to do its job.

 

It could be the purge solenoid, any of the evap vacuum hoses (cracks, loose connections), charcoal canister, gas cap, as well as any associated wiring. Any reason you're jumping to the conclusion that it may be the solenoid, or do you just plan to start throwing parts at the car and hope to get lucky? Have you checked all the hoses and connections yet? That's a good place to start.

 

This is what I was going off of:

(btw, it wasn't my post, I'm not experiencing a misfire, and the guy had B-bodies in mind. Our cars have the canister in the rear fender near the gas cap.)

Since I just put the stuff back together, I'm pretty confident that it's as it should be, and I feel like I would have noticed if anything was damaged (I usually catch that kind of stuff). Unless, of course, I removed the wrong parts when I deleted the EGR and AIR, which I don't think I did. With my understanding of what trips the code, gas fumes are going into the intake manifold when there is not a command to do so. The intake manifold is a long way away from the gas cap, so I'm inclined to think that's not the culprit. That leaves the solenoid and the canister. A bad canister can contaminate the solenoid, causing it to fail. Either way, a failed solenoid would need to be replaced. And I'm not about to touch the canister unless it's absolutely my last option.


Just sharing my line of thought here. If any of it is misguided, by all means let me know.

 

Basically, but it would be a vacuum purge flow being registered, not "fumes" necessarily. For that code to happen, you'd need to have the valve open when it's not supposed to be, or an open/leaking hose between points a and b. As long as you're sure your hoses and connections are solid....

 

So when I switch over from Wisconsin plates to Michigan plates, I'm thinking of getting a custom one. Here's the first option:



Also, I filled up for the first time since getting the car back together. Only averaged 16.22 mpg....most of the miles were on the highway too. That seems awful low...EGR doesn't hurt gas mileage, does it?

 

No, the EGR doesn't hurt gas mileage, but not having one can hurt mpg a little.

 

I think I was getting about 18 mpg combined before I took it apart, with the front O2s still malfunctioning