What is the easiest ways and most cost effective ways to lower my 1/4 time?
#11
07-01-2010, 05:58 PM
Just order their Flow-Pac, and save a couple bucks.
the first thing i realized when takin a closer look at everything is that i need a better intake, the stock one has such a limited abilty to suck the air in to get the motor goin, i pulled the stock box and saw ther is no opening under it and theres a 1" by roughly 10-13" opening (didnt measure it but im taking a guess) thank you on the advice i will be purchasing an SLP intake kit (box lid and filter) when i get out of work tomorrow.
#12
07-02-2010, 11:32 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fort Brag NC (no longer in iraq)
Posts: 2,200
Hi, first off i wish to say im new to this place and camaros. with that said i recently bought myself a 98 z28 as a birthday gift to myself last week. i took it to New York International Raceway and put her throught the paces. she runs a solid 13.2 at bone stock. my roommate has a brand new subaru impreza wrx sti and runs over a half second quicker than me. being myself that just wont work in my book so i was wondering what is the easiest ways and cost effective ways to lower it, also i dont want to put long headers on because anyone who knows the roads in new york knows the salt destroys roads and i will bottom out for sure. so any tips or hints will be most helpful. thank you... a side note is that my Z28 is an automatic, a standard out here runs a premium out here, i dont know if that changes the way i should go about it but if it does i would like to know. thank you again
As for going faster there are a million "how to go faster" threads out there. A lot depends on your budget. The only cheap mod your going to find is the maybe lid and filter every thing else is going to set you back a few bucks.
Good areas to look into:
Lid/Filter
Headers
High flow Y-pipe
LS6 manifold (great investment for 300-400 bucks)
Gears (3.73s still get good MPG 4.10s if you dont mind .1-.3 easy drop in 1/4)
Converter (can cut .2-.4 seconds off your 1/4 with traction)
Tires (with more power you need to hook or your killing your 60 time)
Cam (not only for sound and good gains even with small hot cams)
Dyno tune (once you have a well bolted car this is a great investment)
Areas i wouldn't mess with
MAF (your stock MAF is as good as it gets) (will support 500 rwhp)
Hand tuners (For the price of a new one i would invest in a good dyno tune)
Injectors (no need on even a mild bolted car)
#13
07-02-2010, 11:35 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fort Brag NC (no longer in iraq)
Posts: 2,200
if you want a 1/4 mile car don't lower it the stock springs r used in the rear of 8 second cars. so unless your springs r shot id stay stock and spend money on other suspension like LCAs. on proven thing that is weight and helps transfer weight at the line is removing the front sway bar. if you drive it i would just unhook it at the track
He is also right on. Lots of guys running well into the 10s on bone stock suspensions.
Last edited by cbr600rx7; 07-02-2010 at 11:42 AM.
#14
07-02-2010, 11:43 AM
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Fort Brag NC (no longer in iraq)
Posts: 2,200
Also try searching a little bit more next time. Here are some links
Here is one I did some time ago
https://camaroforums.com/forum/engine-internal-23/ls1-modifications-40494/
Here are two more by spec
https://camaroforums.com/forum/ls-series-tech-15/budget-bolt-performance-ls1-2-3-a-25130/
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/basic-modifications-tech-where-start-modding-25112/
Here is one I did some time ago
https://camaroforums.com/forum/engine-internal-23/ls1-modifications-40494/
Here are two more by spec
https://camaroforums.com/forum/ls-series-tech-15/budget-bolt-performance-ls1-2-3-a-25130/
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02-general-41/basic-modifications-tech-where-start-modding-25112/
#15
07-02-2010, 03:13 PM
A few things that you can try.
Remove all unnecessary weight from the car (spare tire, jack, water bottle, radio, extra coats, etc, etc). Dead weight only slows you down. For that matter, losing the A/C will save you a few pounds and free up a couple of HP, but it is not something that can undone really easily.
How much do you weigh? I know it is stupid to ask, but you are just a big hunk of dead weight in the 1/4.
Run the highest grade fuel you can get at the pump. 91 minimum, 93 is better.
Check your tire pressure, too low lead to excess rolling resistance, too high and you will lose traction. Run high grade synthetic lubricants for everything (engine, tranny, rear end).
All of the above are things that can be done for free, and they can free up a few ponies, and help your 1/4 mile times.
Remove all unnecessary weight from the car (spare tire, jack, water bottle, radio, extra coats, etc, etc). Dead weight only slows you down. For that matter, losing the A/C will save you a few pounds and free up a couple of HP, but it is not something that can undone really easily.
How much do you weigh? I know it is stupid to ask, but you are just a big hunk of dead weight in the 1/4.
Run the highest grade fuel you can get at the pump. 91 minimum, 93 is better.
Check your tire pressure, too low lead to excess rolling resistance, too high and you will lose traction. Run high grade synthetic lubricants for everything (engine, tranny, rear end).
All of the above are things that can be done for free, and they can free up a few ponies, and help your 1/4 mile times.
#16
07-23-2010, 02:45 PM
i bought a flow pack and cat back from slp and i will be getting headers mid tube and a high flow cat next. i meant to say im running 13.7s, typo. last week i beat the subaru by .2 so it definitely helped to get the intake and exhaust. thank you for the advice.i dont really want to start getting rid of things to lose weight because it is my daily driver for the summer and is garaged in the winter but that would def help Grandpaswagon, thank you
#17
07-23-2010, 04:21 PM
One major advantage the STi has on you is all wheel drive.. he's probably killing you on the launch having all 4 tires dig in at once.
#18
07-23-2010, 04:36 PM
Ding ding ding...we have a winner!
Don't expect much of a highway cruiser though if you go this route.
The 4:11 is about as low as you want to go if you plan on driving it on the street,at least as a regular driver and not strictly a street rod.
Even then it will be pretty low geared for the freeway but that's the sacrifice you make for a quick 1/4 mile on the cheap.
4:56 gears will really make it scream down the 1320 but forget about driving it on the freeway very far.
#19
07-23-2010, 06:18 PM
Why the heck would you swap the rear-end just for new gears?! Just install new gears...
Rear end swap will help with the times your car prolly has the 2.73 gears in it which will kill your times, if you do get new gears make sure that you have your computer settings changed for the different ratio. This will not only effect your speedo but your shift points too.
#20
07-23-2010, 06:38 PM
huge gears, tires spintires spin, so you get stickies
good launch + stickies + 4.10's = broken 7.5 inch crapy rear end
wouldnt have broke, if you would have replaced it first
and now you can even resell the old one cuz you broke it
sometimes people on here do stuff half assed
