What company makes reliable daily drivable rotating assembly kits/parts?
#11
So I just took it for a ride to pay attention to the oil pressure. Before it warmed up it never dropped below about 35 under hard acceleration, while stopped, and while driving normally. After it warmed up to around 180 it dropped a little but never went less than like 22 under the same driving conditions (these see my best guess-timates lol). Either way it maxed out around 40.
It does however have this light come on occasionally. Sometimes for longer periods than other and it seems pretty random. From googling I figure it's the low coolant light but I flushed abd replaced the coolant and have checked several times with no issue in the radiator or reservoir. I'm guessing it's broken like the low oil light that has always been on for my FZ1 with 47K miles on it.
It does however have this light come on occasionally. Sometimes for longer periods than other and it seems pretty random. From googling I figure it's the low coolant light but I flushed abd replaced the coolant and have checked several times with no issue in the radiator or reservoir. I'm guessing it's broken like the low oil light that has always been on for my FZ1 with 47K miles on it.
#12
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,485
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
I have the 6 speed already so as far as I know I'll just need a different bell housing and clutch system to mate it to an LS1 right? As for getting the LS getting in there I should be able to sacrifice the a/c for a while (barely works anyways) and basically just slap it in there (more or less) as long as I get an LS rack and pinion set. I might even be able to keep the a/c without any k frame customization if I use relocation brackets. I'm missing stuff I'm sure and maybe I will just buy something else. We'll see I guess. I'll definitely keep updates going, even if it's just to say I have up lol :'(
To do the conversion you would need a doner car and a lot of hours. Go over to the project section and check out Socom's Lt1 to LS1 conversion.
#13
BUILT LSX Stroker into a 95 Z28 - LS1TECHMost of my info fit an LS swap into my car has come from this thread. Is he missing things? And when I look on eBay LT1 vs ls1 t56 isn't a difference larger than a couple hundred dollars, especially when buying from hawks third gen. It's littered with ls1/t56 sets for around $5-$6k.
#14
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,485
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
Also you may be getting way ahead of your self. I have had customers complain about a knock and it was carbon buildup on the piston. You could have piston slap is it is cold when it "knocks" or even a loose wrist pin. Both wrist pin and piston slap may not get any worse for a long time. Heck I have seen main bearing knock for upwards of 50,000 miles. As long as you keep the 10 psi per 1000 RPMs rule in mind the engine could last awhile. If you truly can only hit 40 PSI keep it under 4000 RPMs.
If you have not done it yet you should get a good hand held gage on the motor to verify the cars gage. Those factory gages are crap. Most of the oil pressure issues we had at the dealership were gage issues not engine issues.
If you have not done it yet you should get a good hand held gage on the motor to verify the cars gage. Those factory gages are crap. Most of the oil pressure issues we had at the dealership were gage issues not engine issues.
#15
Wouldn't be the first time lol
My knowledge of carbon buildup = blah and next to zip. Running too high or low octane can do something like that right?
The noise seems to be less when it's cold but I'll pay attention after work tomorrow just to confirm.
Getting different gauges has definitely been sitting in the back of my mind. Any specific recommendations or just grab some gauges from advanced or amazon etc.?
My knowledge of carbon buildup = blah and next to zip. Running too high or low octane can do something like that right?
The noise seems to be less when it's cold but I'll pay attention after work tomorrow just to confirm.
Getting different gauges has definitely been sitting in the back of my mind. Any specific recommendations or just grab some gauges from advanced or amazon etc.?
#16
Fourth Generation Moderator
October 2009 ROTM
October 2009 ROTM
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 10,485
From: Eastern PA,
ROTM Winner's Club
BUILT LSX Stroker into a 95 Z28 - LS1TECHMost of my info fit an LS swap into my car has come from this thread. Is he missing things? And when I look on eBay LT1 vs ls1 t56 isn't a difference larger than a couple hundred dollars, especially when buying from hawks third gen. It's littered with ls1/t56 sets for around $5-$6k.
I just read the first few post and it looks 100% correct. He is making a lot of parts. For most of the world is easier to just buy a wrecked doner car but if you are a fabricator then you don't need to buy anything you can just make it. He did buy a new Kmember a LS1 trans.
https://camaroforums.com/forum/93-02...-thread-79265/
#17
Yea I saw about the ls1 k member. I was assuming I could use one from any old ls1 vehicle but now that I think about it would it only really work from an F body? There's generally a junk corvette hanging around on craigslist or at one of the many junk yards by me so there's hope in that direction at least.
As for making parts, I didn't notice that part. Are you talking about where he kind of made a bracket for the alternator or where he made divets for rod bolts? He also did some wire splicing but I figure that's probably going to happen in most swaps
As for making parts, I didn't notice that part. Are you talking about where he kind of made a bracket for the alternator or where he made divets for rod bolts? He also did some wire splicing but I figure that's probably going to happen in most swaps
#18
LS swap would require and LS k member from an F-body. Nothing else would work.
As far as the trans goes. Input shaft lengths are different. You can use an LT1 T56 behind an LS, but you'd have to tear it down and replace the input shaft as it's longer on the LS. You'd also need the LS style clutch is a push (I think) and the LT is a pull (or the other way around) and the LS hydraulics. More work than it's worth really.
Buy some mechanical gauges from the local parts store or go fancy and get some from Summit/Jegs. I have parts store one's in mine and have zero issues.
Not sure why you jumped to doing an LS swap all of sudden. Haha
As far as the trans goes. Input shaft lengths are different. You can use an LT1 T56 behind an LS, but you'd have to tear it down and replace the input shaft as it's longer on the LS. You'd also need the LS style clutch is a push (I think) and the LT is a pull (or the other way around) and the LS hydraulics. More work than it's worth really.
Buy some mechanical gauges from the local parts store or go fancy and get some from Summit/Jegs. I have parts store one's in mine and have zero issues.
Not sure why you jumped to doing an LS swap all of sudden. Haha
#20