I bought a '95 Z28 with a T56 recently and it seems to have a low end knock now. I put in some hyperlube which seems to have quieted it down, but I'm looking to take care of the situation asap.

I've lurked around multiple sites and forums and it seems that eagle is crap, scat is slightly better, and those are about all I can find. I'd like to stick with stock sizes for everything, but If I have to go with a 383 kit I would (I was thinking that if there's been any damage that boring it a little could fix/undo any problems but idk honestly). When I first changed the oil before the knock I didn't notice any shiny-ness or metal pieces and when I emptied out a quart so I could use the hyperlube I still didn't notice anything but oil in my oil so I'm assuming damages are currently at a minimum.

It seems like most places saying that eagle is no good were people aiming for 500+ HP/TQ which I am not currently interested in. I'm pretty happy where it's at and might in the future aim for 350-400TQ but I'll handle that at a different time. Basically I just want it stock, and to occasionally dirve it sideways or hit the dragstrip. Any help would be appreciated.


Also, since I'm new here I'll give a little info about myself:
1)I know how to use "search" lol. I've been active on the FZ10A forum under this same username since around 2012 and other forums before and since that.

2) I've done all the work on all my motorcycles and cars from day 1. From A/C to clutches to transmission pulling to messing with electronics I've got my hands into a little of everything and I'm fairly confident in my ability to get things done. Forums and youtube have definitely been invaluable to my successes.

3) My list of vehicles in order of ownership: 1996 Yamha XT225, 2004 250 Ninja, 2003 FZ1, 1985 Buick Regal Limited, 1989 T-top formula Firebird, 1995 T-top Z28 Camaro.

 

I moved this thread to the general section. The project section is for posting updates to projects, not really for asking question.

Some advice, seek out a machine shop, spend a little time looking, maybe go to car shows or cruises to talk to guy that have already have had work done. You are going to need a machine shop no matter what you so if you plan on using your block.

Once you find a good machine shop that knows the LT1 well, talk to them, in many cases machine shops already have a vendor or manufacturer they like to use. Getting the machine shop "on board" with what you are doing is step one. In many cases machinists have a favorite setup for a particular engine. These are tried combinations that have a history of working well together.

Research, research, research. When it comes to DIY engines building you don't know what you don't know. As a pro I got involved after the fact in the finger pointing that happens after a engine build goes bad. If you have the machine shop machine your block and supply the parts you would think all you need to do is put it together :BUZZ: wrong. Bearing clearances still need checked, all parts still need clean, things like deck heights, end play, ring gaps all need verified. Edges may need debured during the cleaning process. The most common issue I have seen is people assuming the machine shop cleaned everything. That is considered a finish assemble process. Crude from the crank destroys the bearing is seconds. I have also seen bearings and rings put in the wrong box from the factory. 95% of the time it is a mistake that would have been caught by a pro builder but gets missed by the DIYer.

You can also talk to the machine shop about how much you do and what should be left to them. Keep in mind if you build the motor you and there is a problem you would have to prove it was something they did. If they build it then its on them at least for the first few months or the first race track day

 

^What he said.

There are other options other Scat and Eagle....plenty actually. Any aftermarket crank, rods, and pistons that say '86 up will work. The rotating assembly is one of the few parts that the LT1 shares with the original 350 SBC

 

So are you saying that I was right in thinking that I should go the 383 route? In that case everything you said makes sense and is probably what I'll end up doing.

Or

Is the 383 route not really necessary ? Which would lead me to ask if everything you said still applies even if I buy essentially stock components to replace what's in there? I suppose clearance checks etc. but is that something that I would need more sophisticated tools, technology, and knowledge to properly handle?

I know I can be stubborn so thanks for whatever degree of "putting up with me" you dispense lol.

 

I personally feel like the LS1 is bit over-rated (Beautiful nonetheless) but I'm keeping the idea in mind. Has anybody had experience with A/C relocation bracket kits like this? Notching my K frame doesn't make me warm and fuzzy inside to say the least and less could be said about my feelings for buying a custom frame. I know it's a bit of a oxymoron but I prefer to keep things as stock as possible.

 

If the engine block goes to a machine shop then everything I said applies. If the engine is not going to the machine shop and you are just taking it a part and putting it together that is more of a repair then a rebuild and then you can just ignore what I said.

Depending on miles, I would expect for 400-500 hp build you would bore out the cylinders to get them round again and have the line bore checked and block checked for defects/cracks.


Personally I do not think the Ls1 is over rated. If anything most people don't know what it can do BUT in its stock form it is a mass produced engine with all the common defects of a mass produced engine. Upgrade the oil pump, some of the bolts, valve train and gaskets and it can easily handle 600 hp or last for a 1/4 million miles. 6 bolt main FTW. I would not recommend a conversion for you. For what a good LS1/ 6 speeds sells for you could just buy the whole car. In fact I have been seeing a lot of solid shells for sale that are missing their drive trains. People are buying good running 4th gens just to take out the motor and trans for other projects.

 

You don't have to go the 383 route. Really the only way to know what route to take is to get the engine apart and to a machine shop and see what damage has been done.

As far as special tools....you can go the right way and buy a micrometer, cam degree wheel, a gauge with a magnetic base to check the thrust bearing, others I can't think right now. You can substitute plasti gauge for the mic. Degree wheel isn't an absolute must either. But you do need a way to make sure the thrust bearing is correct. A good idea of what tools you'd need to do it the right way is check go to the Powernation website and watch an Engine Power/Horsepower episode where they build an engine...there are plenty (like every episode lol)

 

I have the 6 speed already so as far as I know I'll just need a different bell housing and clutch system to mate it to an LS1 right? As for getting the LS getting in there I should be able to sacrifice the a/c for a while (barely works anyways) and basically just slap it in there (more or less) as long as I get an LS rack and pinion set. I might even be able to keep the a/c without any k frame customization if I use relocation brackets. I'm missing stuff I'm sure and maybe I will just buy something else. We'll see I guess. I'll definitely keep updates going, even if it's just to say I have up lol :'(

 

what is your oil pressure? you may get away with replacing the oil pump. i did that with my first lt1 and it pulled the oil pressure back up to 20-40lbs from 5-30.

 

it takes quite a bit to switch to ls1, we have one member on here thats a wiz with computers and he managed to wire it so he didnt have to replace all the wiring and stuff that is needed to do the switch.