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I head the fuel pump prime when the ignition was set to on. I then sprayed some starter fluid in the intake, and exactly the same as before. I think my next steps are to check the path of spark to see what is going on.
I put this adjustable spark tester on #6, as it was the easiest one to get to, and saw no spark at 30k. Even went down to 5k, and nothing. Tried to get another plug, but with the car being on the ground could not maneuver the tester into position where I could see. So I decided to test the coil to distributor wire. Same thing. Either the signal stops somewhere at the coil or earlier, or I have a bad tester (continuity when touching, so I doubt that).
While I am waiting on my harness to get here, I wanted to make sure a previous owner’s mod was done correctly. Or adequately.
I was investigating why the EVAP solenoid vac line was missing, and came across a coolant bypass. Wanted to make sure it was hooked up properly, as I saw a different way of doing this.
Top outlet of TB goes to valve. EGR I assume.
Middle outlet/inlet of TB goes to radiator neck.
Bottom outlet/inlet of TB goes to junction of water pump/radiator line.
Steam pipe is sitting uncapped.
Evap is the last thing to worry about. Its just the vent on the tank. If the tank get too much pressure or too much vacuum and can cause an issue but all you need to do is remove the gas cap. normally it takes a long time for a vent issue to cause even a small problem.
As for the coolant by pass, I am not picturing what you are talking about. There should only be 2 hoses. There is coolant line to the TB and one going away. To bypass it you allow the coolant to flow but just not through the TB. The simplest way to bypass the TB is a simple pipe with both lines hooked to it would by pass it. the line going to the EGR should have nothing to do with the coolant bypass. That is a vacuum line.
Well the starter is doing fine and she's definitely loosened up enough to run.
Get fuel and spark going on and she should pop off.
Hmm, ok. I guess it's time to test fuel pressure and get a video of the spark between coil and Opti.
Originally Posted by Gorn
Evap is the last thing to worry about. Its just the vent on the tank. If the tank get too much pressure or too much vacuum and can cause an issue but all you need to do is remove the gas cap. normally it takes a long time for a vent issue to cause even a small problem.
As for the coolant by pass, I am not picturing what you are talking about. There should only be 2 hoses. There is coolant line to the TB and one going away. To bypass it you allow the coolant to flow but just not through the TB. The simplest way to bypass the TB is a simple pipe with both lines hooked to it would by pass it. the line going to the EGR should have nothing to do with the coolant bypass. That is a vacuum line.
I eventually think I arrived at what is going on, but not why. (I was also calling the PCV an EGR, but that's on me). Instead of the steam pipe venting to the radiator, the TB port that is supposed to go to the EVAP solenoid is. EVAP solenoid and steam pipe are just hanging out with no connections. The coolant route through the TB appears stock. Just for the sake of covering all my bases, I'm going to put it back to stock because it's cheap and simple.
