Stupid question but need advice on oil and filter!
#1
03-26-2013, 02:05 PM
Stupid question but need advice on oil and filter!
Hey I know this is kind of a lame topic, but I need some advice on oil and a filter for my 1993 V6. The car is not in good condition, as my profile says, it's definitely a project car and I'm just starting to put some work into it. Where better to start then with an oil change first, right? I looked into it a bit already and from what I read it's 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer recommended for my car.. And I used to use High Mileage Valvoline on my Blazer with a K&N filter.. But I was wondering if anyone else had any better suggestions? Also, my Camaro has a little over 165,000 miles on it, and I'm willing to bet hasn't had an oil change in quite awhile.. So should I go with thicker or thinner oil? A local AAA recommended review-friendly garage is currently offering a Lube Oil & Filter Change for $22.99 for 5W30 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil with free Winter Safety Inspection including tires, belts, hoses, wiper blades, antifreeze and battery... I was also thinking of just bringing it here for the first oil change since I know there will be many more to come without knowing much about this car, and they inspect so many other things... Opinions please?????
#2
03-26-2013, 02:14 PM
To be honest oil brand is really opinionated and is all pretty much the same, as long they are SAE certified (which all the brands are).
What I would do is use whatever the recommended oil weight is, and add sea foam to it. Then after running the car for a bit, drain it all out and do a fresh oil change. Seafoam is good at cleaning out the innards and can be mixed with oil or gas. When you do it with oil you want to change the oil again, because you need to get all that crap out that was loosened/removed by the seafoam.
What I would do is use whatever the recommended oil weight is, and add sea foam to it. Then after running the car for a bit, drain it all out and do a fresh oil change. Seafoam is good at cleaning out the innards and can be mixed with oil or gas. When you do it with oil you want to change the oil again, because you need to get all that crap out that was loosened/removed by the seafoam.
#3
03-26-2013, 02:37 PM
I changed to synthetic from dino/synthetic blend at about 150,000, currently at 222,000, and the oil leak i had at the time didnt get any noticeably bigger just from the switch.
#5
03-26-2013, 03:48 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
Saying not to use synthetic but to use seafoam is a contradictory statement. Synthetic might (slim chance) "create" a leak because it cleans away sludge buildup that could otherwise be masking an existing poor seal condition. Aren't you trying to clean out that same sludge with the seafoam? Yes, you are.
#7
03-26-2013, 06:58 PM
I used Mobil 1 for the longest time when I had my Buick and when I first got my Camaro. I've been using Pennzoil HM lately and it's been doing well with the PureOne filter. Will be switching to K & N next oil change (testing filters), we'll see how the PureOne stacks up against the Mobil 1 that I had before.
On that note, I do not and will never recommend Fram as a filter. Years ago they were good, but they've sucked the last decade. They space their plates too much and the cardboard reinforcement on top isn't reassuring when the rest are using metal....
For oil, brand wise, as FD stated, they all have to meet the same SAE specs. Something else you want to look for is the API designation on the back of the bottle. Look for the letters SM as this is the latest installment specs from them. API-SL is just as good so if that's what it has, don't worry.
Synthetics are superior to conventional in every which way except price. But I'm big on recommending high mileage oil to 75k and over crowd so I'd go that route with a Bosch Distance Plus filter (if you can still find them).
On that note, I do not and will never recommend Fram as a filter. Years ago they were good, but they've sucked the last decade. They space their plates too much and the cardboard reinforcement on top isn't reassuring when the rest are using metal....
For oil, brand wise, as FD stated, they all have to meet the same SAE specs. Something else you want to look for is the API designation on the back of the bottle. Look for the letters SM as this is the latest installment specs from them. API-SL is just as good so if that's what it has, don't worry.
Synthetics are superior to conventional in every which way except price. But I'm big on recommending high mileage oil to 75k and over crowd so I'd go that route with a Bosch Distance Plus filter (if you can still find them).
#8
03-26-2013, 07:39 PM
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: The 'Burbs of Chicago
Posts: 18,306
When you do the math, synthetic doesn't cost more, and could actually cost less since you aren't changing your oil and filter nearly as often as dino oil.
#9
03-26-2013, 08:05 PM
To be honest oil brand is really opinionated and is all pretty much the same, as long they are SAE certified (which all the brands are).
What I would do is use whatever the recommended oil weight is, and add sea foam to it. Then after running the car for a bit, drain it all out and do a fresh oil change. Seafoam is good at cleaning out the innards and can be mixed with oil or gas. When you do it with oil you want to change the oil again, because you need to get all that crap out that was loosened/removed by the seafoam.
What I would do is use whatever the recommended oil weight is, and add sea foam to it. Then after running the car for a bit, drain it all out and do a fresh oil change. Seafoam is good at cleaning out the innards and can be mixed with oil or gas. When you do it with oil you want to change the oil again, because you need to get all that crap out that was loosened/removed by the seafoam.
Seafoam or Lucas??
#10
03-26-2013, 08:15 PM
I used Mobil 1 for the longest time when I had my Buick and when I first got my Camaro. I've been using Pennzoil HM lately and it's been doing well with the PureOne filter. Will be switching to K & N next oil change (testing filters), we'll see how the PureOne stacks up against the Mobil 1 that I had before.
On that note, I do not and will never recommend Fram as a filter. Years ago they were good, but they've sucked the last decade. They space their plates too much and the cardboard reinforcement on top isn't reassuring when the rest are using metal....
For oil, brand wise, as FD stated, they all have to meet the same SAE specs. Something else you want to look for is the API designation on the back of the bottle. Look for the letters SM as this is the latest installment specs from them. API-SL is just as good so if that's what it has, don't worry.
Synthetics are superior to conventional in every which way except price. But I'm big on recommending high mileage oil to 75k and over crowd so I'd go that route with a Bosch Distance Plus filter (if you can still find them).
On that note, I do not and will never recommend Fram as a filter. Years ago they were good, but they've sucked the last decade. They space their plates too much and the cardboard reinforcement on top isn't reassuring when the rest are using metal....
For oil, brand wise, as FD stated, they all have to meet the same SAE specs. Something else you want to look for is the API designation on the back of the bottle. Look for the letters SM as this is the latest installment specs from them. API-SL is just as good so if that's what it has, don't worry.
Synthetics are superior to conventional in every which way except price. But I'm big on recommending high mileage oil to 75k and over crowd so I'd go that route with a Bosch Distance Plus filter (if you can still find them).
Can't say I've heard of a PureOne filter, is that the brand name? I was thinking on going with either Royal Purple, K&N, or Mobil1, although I'm not a huge fan of buying anything Mobil myself, but those seem to have best ratings. I'm guessing now after reading all this, that's a better idea for the 2nd oil change I'm going to have to do. I was also wondering where exactly I find the API designation on the back of the bottle, which you were talking about, or the SM/SL you mentioned? And lastly, I heard that you should never use Bosch products on a GM car.. Different for an oil filter??