speaker impedances
#1
speaker impedances
Hello everyone,
I just started pulling apart my 1996 V6 with the factory cd radio (picture below, non-bose I think) and discovered that the front door speakers are 4 ohm and the rear speakers are 10 ohm. All of my replacement speakers are 4 ohm, which seems to be the standard now. For now, I added 4 ohm power resistors to the back ones in series to bring the impedance to 8 ohms, but I'm wondering if this is necessary because the head unit seems to be able to deal with the front speakers fine. Would GM(delco) design a head unit to drive 2 sets of different impedance speakers? That sounds a bit odd. Anyway, I'm wondering if pulling the resistors off will damage my radio by allowing too much current to pass, since the current setup seems to cut down the volume in the rear a bit.
Also, what do you guys recommend for adding a subwoofer to the back of a convertible? All the enclosures I've seen are for the hatch. Or should I just go with a powered one like the infinity basslink?
radio looks like this:
thanks in advance!
I just started pulling apart my 1996 V6 with the factory cd radio (picture below, non-bose I think) and discovered that the front door speakers are 4 ohm and the rear speakers are 10 ohm. All of my replacement speakers are 4 ohm, which seems to be the standard now. For now, I added 4 ohm power resistors to the back ones in series to bring the impedance to 8 ohms, but I'm wondering if this is necessary because the head unit seems to be able to deal with the front speakers fine. Would GM(delco) design a head unit to drive 2 sets of different impedance speakers? That sounds a bit odd. Anyway, I'm wondering if pulling the resistors off will damage my radio by allowing too much current to pass, since the current setup seems to cut down the volume in the rear a bit.
Also, what do you guys recommend for adding a subwoofer to the back of a convertible? All the enclosures I've seen are for the hatch. Or should I just go with a powered one like the infinity basslink?
radio looks like this:
thanks in advance!
#2
ok if they haven't already those resistors are gonna blow or fry and your speakers will not workey. im sure they arent 50 watt resistors best case is they are more like 1 or half watt and will not really do much anyway, what speakers did you get brand, and wattage specs both RMS and Max. the next thing i would do is change out the head unit you'll get a lil extra power than the stock non amplified system, but not much more. after market decks are made to typically put out 50watts x 4 channels @ 4 ohm. now if your speakers handle say 200 watts and you only get 50 watts to them you won't get as good of a full range sound as they can produce, have higher chances of blowing them. distortion is what blows speakers and under powering them is just as bad as over powering them.
i looked at this web site for some ideas when i put my system together they have some good stealth boxes etc. for both t-top and conv cars.
http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...bird-1993-2002
i looked at this web site for some ideas when i put my system together they have some good stealth boxes etc. for both t-top and conv cars.
http://subthump.com/Chevrolet-GMC-Su...bird-1993-2002
Last edited by Carl Dan; 07-21-2010 at 05:44 PM.
#3
i have hidden these wires since i took this pic lol i was just kinda excited i guess
currently i have totally rewired my entire audio system i have 12 speakers total including my subs running two amps one for highs and one for the two subs. i came stock with the 500 watt max Monsoon audio system with 6 speakers. i have infinity kappa 6.5 components front doors and in the middle set for the back seats, infinity kappa 4" for the rear sail panels beside the sub enclosure (custom made...by me!) and then my custom amp rack with both amps mounted to that near the rear hatch opening (also custom made and wrapped by me lol). i'll try to help you out as much as i can i have been installing Car Electronics professionally for 6+ years now for two Major retailers.\
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