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I'm shaking my head. Picture yourself as me. You come across a 2002 Camaro, it has an 2014 inspection sticker, however it now 2023. It hasn't been driven in at least 7 years.
I previously own a 1995 Camaro that I bought at a used car lot for 25000. The engine performed well over my expectations. I did not change anything within the engine. However, I did add 22' inch wheels and tires. This was in the year 2011. The 3800 v6 ran like a champ. The only issue I ever had with 95 camaro was with one freeze plug. Despite having 22 inch rims. I was able to access the freeze plug on the engine behind the large wheels. I installed a new freeze plug on the passenger side in 2012. This 1995 Camaro V6 engine performed flawlessly. I owned the car for 5 years. In 2015 I damaged both wheels on the passenger side driving under the influence. I owned a 86 GMC Jimmy with 20 inch 100 spoke wire wheels that was stolen when I was 23. The truck was recovered but without no rims. On the camaro every lug on each wheel was bolted with locking lug nuts. I lost the key to unlock the lug nuts.I sold the car for 5 hundred dollars in 2015. How stupid of me right? yea you live and learn. Next I drove a 1988 420SEL Mercedes benz and a 1998 F-150 Ford Truck.The benz has a replacement engine installed, the engine is connected to transmission but I haven't connected the electrical system wiring. Indoors for 8yrs, It just been sitting like that. The F-150 has water in the oil. It had a minor water pump leak. I would fill the coolant system with water and drive as needed. In 2021 the truck was exposed to temperatures below freezing without antifreeze water in the coolant system froze. It over heated while driving I parked it and it awaits to be repaired. In 2021 I then purchased a 2002 Camaro that wasn't running. I was told by the owner it had an overheating issue. It was sold to me for 500 bucks. I had decided that the camaro would require an engine replacement. However before attempting to remove the engine I tried a repair. The Oil didn't contain any coolant, the oil looked decent. I replaced the water pump and runs very well. the inspection sticker is from 2014 It hasn't been driven in at least 7 years. One day it wouldn't start.I noticed that I wasn't hearing the fuel pump engaging. I then added new spark plugs and replaced the fuel pump and fuel pump relays. Now that I have the new fuel pump in the engine still will not crank, its as if the fuel pump isn't receiving power. So that's where I am, I am least wanting to here the fuel pump humm! I need Help!!! Please! Hep
Fuel pump fuse?
Is the security light on? Cutting power to the fuel pump is how the security system stops a car from running. This system is a common failure point and there is a process to bypass it but that is jumping the gun. Did you remove the tank when you pulled the pump? Or did you cut the floor? This could be a defective pump. If it is one of those cheap pumps they have a very high defect rate. I put three in one car before I got it all working the way it should. Did the new pump ever turn on? There is a connector by the drivers rear wheel for the pump. You should check the manual for the color of the wires and verify both power and ground going to the pump.
Try not to replace two parts at the same time. Let say the pump is bad and you replace the bad pump with a good one but you also replace the good relay with a bad one. Same problem and now you are confused. Or even worse the issue is something else and now you could have a defective pump or relay. We call this throwing parts at a problem. The best way to fix something is to test and replace one part at a time. If you want to replace the relay wait a week then install the new one. Nothing worse than working on a car someone has fired a parts cannon at. Imagine investigating a crime scene and someone has already replaced the floor, fixed and repainted the walls.
I am not sure what years but some of these cars have a test lead under the hood on the passengers side right near where the main harness enter the engine bay. It will look like something that should be connected but it is just hanging there. If you have one it is the fuel pump test lead. You can check to see if it has power and you can add 12 volts to it and see if the pump turns on. DO NOT make a connector and hook it to the battery unless you have the correct size fuse. If something is dead shorted from mice you could burn you rig down. Your best bet is to just touch wire for a second or two, if you get a shower of sparks then you have a wiring problem.
Fuel pump fuse?
Is the security light on? Cutting power to the fuel pump is how the security system stops a car from running. This system is a common failure point and there is a process to bypass it but that is jumping the gun. Did you remove the tank when you pulled the pump? Or did you cut the floor? This could be a defective pump. If it is one of those cheap pumps they have a very high defect rate. I put three in one car before I got it all working the way it should. Did the new pump ever turn on? There is a connector by the drivers rear wheel for the pump. You should check the manual for the color of the wires and verify both power and ground going to the pump.
Try not to replace two parts at the same time. Let say the pump is bad and you replace the bad pump with a good one but you also replace the good relay with a bad one. Same problem and now you are confused. Or even worse the issue is something else and now you could have a defective pump or relay. We call this throwing parts at a problem. The best way to fix something is to test and replace one part at a time. If you want to replace the relay wait a week then install the new one. Nothing worse than working on a car someone has fired a parts cannon at. Imagine investigating a crime scene and someone has already replaced the floor, fixed and repainted the walls.
I am not sure what years but some of these cars have a test lead under the hood on the passengers side right near where the main harness enter the engine bay. It will look like something that should be connected but it is just hanging there. If you have one it is the fuel pump test lead. You can check to see if it has power and you can add 12 volts to it and see if the pump turns on. DO NOT make a connector and hook it to the battery unless you have the correct size fuse. If something is dead shorted from mice you could burn you rig down. Your best bet is to just touch wire for a second or two, if you get a shower of sparks then you have a wiring problem.
Thanks for posting. I have been in a crappy mood alil day, but now I'm reading your feedback and now beginning to smile and think positive. I gave my wife hell this morning.The security light is on today, it wasn't last night. I will have to reset the ECM before I can even attempt to start trouble shooting again. You feed back is dead on, everything you mentioned is on a to do list. I did cut a hole through the trunk. I love that you shared your experience with the three defective pumps you purchased. I purchased my the new fuel pump from RockAuto.com. I definitely do not know to return it if it is defective. I'm learning that I will need a voltage meter or a test light to tackle this issue. The new pump didn't even turn on! I even tried different wiring sequence. I was desperate. It was now night time I could barely see. I just started connecting wires everywhere. I totally cut off the wire connectors and began twisting wires together.
I'll attempt to check for the connector you mention to test the fuel pump first thing in the morning.
As you mentioned I will do check the manual for the color of the wires and verify both power and ground going to the pump. This had me smiling and totally changed my perspective reading your paragraph beginning with " Try not to replace two parts at the same time" Duley Noted! Now that I have the work plan. I'm going to work the plan. I'll give you an update and let know how I'm progressing. Thanks a million!!!!!
No power to fuel pump
