need help with new clutch
#31
06-04-2011, 02:25 AM
If all you have done is replace the clutch and nothing was done to the transmission, assuming it went into gear fine before you replaced the clutch then I'd say your variables lie within the clutch installation.
If you've bled it 3 times, and you know for sure 100% beyond a shadow of a doubt the disc is not in wrong then perhaps something is not adjusted properly.
In most hydraulic systems (And I can't speak on behalf of this car since I haven't worked on, keep in mind this is a GENERAL perspective) the pedal still needs adjustment or has adjustment.
When the clutch is pushed in you'll have a certain movement of the pedal that pushes in the plunger and moves the slave cylinder to push the release fork and pull back the pressure plate.
Generally as a clutch gets older even though the system doesn't need adjusted on most, there can still be a degree that the pedal may need adjusting.
On my last car it required you to have 1/8-1/4" of freeplay before the clutch was pushed in. Otherwise there would be too much pressure on the master cyl for the clutch and it NEVER would bleed right, nor work right. If that were the case then it wouldn't push the release fork far enough to pull the pressure plate back all the way to 100% disengage.
Having not being familiar with this exact car, does your pedal have an adjustment for freeplay? If so where is it at?
Again, if it shifted into gear fine before the clutch replacement, then directly after the replacement with a new one will not go in then it is an error in installation and/or adjustment unless it was driven and something got borked upon driving it.
If you've bled it 3 times, and you know for sure 100% beyond a shadow of a doubt the disc is not in wrong then perhaps something is not adjusted properly.
In most hydraulic systems (And I can't speak on behalf of this car since I haven't worked on, keep in mind this is a GENERAL perspective) the pedal still needs adjustment or has adjustment.
When the clutch is pushed in you'll have a certain movement of the pedal that pushes in the plunger and moves the slave cylinder to push the release fork and pull back the pressure plate.
Generally as a clutch gets older even though the system doesn't need adjusted on most, there can still be a degree that the pedal may need adjusting.
On my last car it required you to have 1/8-1/4" of freeplay before the clutch was pushed in. Otherwise there would be too much pressure on the master cyl for the clutch and it NEVER would bleed right, nor work right. If that were the case then it wouldn't push the release fork far enough to pull the pressure plate back all the way to 100% disengage.
Having not being familiar with this exact car, does your pedal have an adjustment for freeplay? If so where is it at?
Again, if it shifted into gear fine before the clutch replacement, then directly after the replacement with a new one will not go in then it is an error in installation and/or adjustment unless it was driven and something got borked upon driving it.
#35
06-05-2011, 01:37 AM
And this is why I do not do transmission work lol! I am currently having a Tick Performance Stage 2 1/2 Viper Rebuild Kit, Stage 2 1/2 Clutch installed, Tick Performance master cylinder and speed bleeder installed! All rated for 600RWHP! 
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