Fuel Pump Hatch, and Suspension Question

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  #11  
Old 02-19-2012, 12:33 AM
libertyforall1776's Avatar
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Location: IL
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In the rear you only need to replace the bumpstops if they are eroded or broken away. The front you should be fine for Bilsteins as you reuse the stock dust boot that has the bumpstop in it. Konis have a new one included. I would definitely spring for the Koni SAs for a V8...

You will want to get some anti-seaze lube for the threads -- apply a light coating.

Then some good tunes and good beer. Someone to cook some good BBQ to be ready when you need a break.

Take your time, the fronts are an involved process. Rears are easy. I assume you have stock springs? If so, you should be good.
 
  #12  
Old 02-19-2012, 09:54 AM
androzer's Avatar
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all F-bodies has this issue of fuel pump? I mean needs this kind of swap?
late 4th gen also?
 
  #13  
Old 02-19-2012, 03:19 PM
Javs_is_fat's Avatar
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Too late now but you were not supposed to cut those ridges, they give the body structural support. If you closed it up well it shouldn't be a big deal though.
 
  #14  
Old 02-19-2012, 03:36 PM
Mikey.'s Avatar
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Originally Posted by Javs_is_fat
Too late now but you were not supposed to cut those ridges, they give the body structural support. If you closed it up well it shouldn't be a big deal though.
I'm really not worried about it. If it was meant for support they should have used something a lot thicker. I've seen countless people do the same. Plus the extra access it gives to the lines is worth it. But the material I used to cover it should be enough.

@ Androzer- You can do it the traditional (right) way, by dropping the tank and removing the pump there, but this way is a lot more convenient, and as people have a lot of trouble with the newer pumps sometimes, I think worth it.
 
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