Cooling fan works but-- doesn't get power. Only way to work it 40 % of the time...
I took my 4th gen 1993 v-6 , 3.4 L Camaro to a more affordable repair shop last week to have the oil leaks fixed
the mechanic sealed them but said
Cooling fan works but-- doesn't get power.
Only way to make the cooling fan work 40 % of the time...
was to disconnect the cooling temp sensor (which somehow makes the fan work 40 % of the time)
this was a temporary disconnection per my free lance mechanic so that the car wouldn't overheat and blow out a headgasket until he ran a wire from either the battery or the distributor to it to make it run off the car battery or the distributor
such sensor disconnection made the ride rough, and it had the check engine light on as a result of that
it was running rough ok until it just later on got worse--by turning off in the middle of the road
my freelance mechanic noticed the plug leading the cooling sensor a bit frayed and said he didn't know what the problem was why the car kept stalling-- because he re-connected the cooling temp sensor so the car should have been running smoothly until I drove it home with the heater fans on
he said he'd have to take it a block or 2 away from it's then-position to the affordable mechanic again to see what the problem is.
anyone have a similar problem?
maybe it's the worn plug that leads to the cooling temp sensor?
after reconnecting the cooling temp sensor again so that the car would run smoothly and not turn off in the middle of the road, the check engine lite was still on....
is it the worn plug that leads to the temp sensor
or should the battery have been disconnected and reconnected after waiting 10 minutes to put the car back in with its normal codes so that the car would run smoothly?
thanks for any help on this question
the mechanic sealed them but said
Cooling fan works but-- doesn't get power.
Only way to make the cooling fan work 40 % of the time...
was to disconnect the cooling temp sensor (which somehow makes the fan work 40 % of the time)
this was a temporary disconnection per my free lance mechanic so that the car wouldn't overheat and blow out a headgasket until he ran a wire from either the battery or the distributor to it to make it run off the car battery or the distributor
such sensor disconnection made the ride rough, and it had the check engine light on as a result of that
it was running rough ok until it just later on got worse--by turning off in the middle of the road
my freelance mechanic noticed the plug leading the cooling sensor a bit frayed and said he didn't know what the problem was why the car kept stalling-- because he re-connected the cooling temp sensor so the car should have been running smoothly until I drove it home with the heater fans on
he said he'd have to take it a block or 2 away from it's then-position to the affordable mechanic again to see what the problem is.
anyone have a similar problem?
maybe it's the worn plug that leads to the cooling temp sensor?
after reconnecting the cooling temp sensor again so that the car would run smoothly and not turn off in the middle of the road, the check engine lite was still on....
is it the worn plug that leads to the temp sensor
or should the battery have been disconnected and reconnected after waiting 10 minutes to put the car back in with its normal codes so that the car would run smoothly?
thanks for any help on this question
update: a google search or research revealed that an improperly connected or worn plug that leads to the coolant temp sensor sends a wrong message to the car and the engine is fooled into thinking it is too hot and shuts off in the middle of the road before riding very very rough
this was on a volvo, the dude decided to get a new cooling temp sensor for $110 cad (canadian dollars), it worked again, the car worked or ran again smoothly like magic
these cars are pre 1996 meaning odb sensors don't detect problems that's why lots of mechanics don't like to work on them or diagnose their problems
*new question: anyone think that a mechanic who is not an expert on electrical problems can solve this right?
thanks for any constructive help
this was on a volvo, the dude decided to get a new cooling temp sensor for $110 cad (canadian dollars), it worked again, the car worked or ran again smoothly like magic
these cars are pre 1996 meaning odb sensors don't detect problems that's why lots of mechanics don't like to work on them or diagnose their problems
*new question: anyone think that a mechanic who is not an expert on electrical problems can solve this right?
thanks for any constructive help
How did he verify that they do not work? If you start the car and turn the a/c on, the fan(s) should automatically kick on so long as the a/c is on. Otherwise, they only kick on at, I think, 220 for low speed/single fan and then 235 high speed/both fans
he's some cheap suppose cracker jack mechanic that works on imports and foreign luxury cars
this American car lack of knowledge idio now that i recall probably doesn't know that a camaro's fans are not supposed to be always on but are signalled at a certain temperature
i don't deal with him direcetly a free lance mechanic who i deal with does
Anwya plesase is getting the car runnign something any idiot can do when they have obviously screwed by disab ling a sensor like the coolant temp sensor???
i am starting to freak out-- this is something that is not electrical right? i cant even type normal like i usually do-- this is something that any mechanic and get to run smoothly again? by undoing what he did? a sensor is not in the realm of electrical work for mechanics, right?
most of these mechanics farm o0ut electrical work so
again this is not electrical work--getting the damn sensor back on or fixed or whatever to make the car not sound rough or ride rough is again NOT a electrical issue -- rigtht"
this American car lack of knowledge idio now that i recall probably doesn't know that a camaro's fans are not supposed to be always on but are signalled at a certain temperature
i don't deal with him direcetly a free lance mechanic who i deal with does
Anwya plesase is getting the car runnign something any idiot can do when they have obviously screwed by disab ling a sensor like the coolant temp sensor???
i am starting to freak out-- this is something that is not electrical right? i cant even type normal like i usually do-- this is something that any mechanic and get to run smoothly again? by undoing what he did? a sensor is not in the realm of electrical work for mechanics, right?
most of these mechanics farm o0ut electrical work so
again this is not electrical work--getting the damn sensor back on or fixed or whatever to make the car not sound rough or ride rough is again NOT a electrical issue -- rigtht"
the car is a piece of junk now if it can't run without damn stalling
these codes or sensors or fuses or wtf u call them are not much-- small little things, but can disable a car and render it USELESS
who here knows if disabling a sensor a cooling temp sensor and then either buying a new one or getting the plug" that is attached to the cooling temp sensor is something that any mechanic can do-- in other words it is not considered electrical work right?
it is basic mechancis 101 to be able to attach a sensor securely right?
i can't make this any easier to undrestand...he touched the cooling temp sensor to get the cooling fan working--this disruption renders my car useless, it stalls...a symptom of a darn cooling temp sensor being messed up issue--and and --ANY Mechanic can work and fix this easily right?
thanks in advance for helping me
these codes or sensors or fuses or wtf u call them are not much-- small little things, but can disable a car and render it USELESS
who here knows if disabling a sensor a cooling temp sensor and then either buying a new one or getting the plug" that is attached to the cooling temp sensor is something that any mechanic can do-- in other words it is not considered electrical work right?
it is basic mechancis 101 to be able to attach a sensor securely right?
i can't make this any easier to undrestand...he touched the cooling temp sensor to get the cooling fan working--this disruption renders my car useless, it stalls...a symptom of a darn cooling temp sensor being messed up issue--and and --ANY Mechanic can work and fix this easily right?
thanks in advance for helping me
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The sensor he is unplugging is also the sensor that tells the computer how cold/warm the engine is. It is one of the most critical sensor in your fuel injection system. If you mechanic does not understand electronic he should not be messing with sensor.
If you have a frayed wire to a sensor it needs some attention. The copper will corrode, with oxygen and time and that will build resistance changing the value the sensor reports.
Fans DO NOT run all the time as stated above. It can take 10-15 minutes for the first fan to kick on and depending on how cold it is the second fan my not come on at all. As a general rule fan should not need to run at highway speeds.
By disconnection the coolant sensor you put the car in Limp Home Mode. Since the signal for the coolant sensor is out of range (since it disconnected) The system will ignore most sensors and run on a predefined fuel and spark map. First thing a real mechanic would do is reconnect the coolant sensor start the car clear the codes and verify the temp in the computer is about the same as the engine temp. If not fix it. If so then verify the fans are turning when they should.
The big question is, has the car over heated on you?
If you have a frayed wire to a sensor it needs some attention. The copper will corrode, with oxygen and time and that will build resistance changing the value the sensor reports.
Fans DO NOT run all the time as stated above. It can take 10-15 minutes for the first fan to kick on and depending on how cold it is the second fan my not come on at all. As a general rule fan should not need to run at highway speeds.
By disconnection the coolant sensor you put the car in Limp Home Mode. Since the signal for the coolant sensor is out of range (since it disconnected) The system will ignore most sensors and run on a predefined fuel and spark map. First thing a real mechanic would do is reconnect the coolant sensor start the car clear the codes and verify the temp in the computer is about the same as the engine temp. If not fix it. If so then verify the fans are turning when they should.
The big question is, has the car over heated on you?
The sensor he is unplugging is also the sensor that tells the computer how cold/warm the engine is. It is one of the most critical sensor in your fuel injection system. If you mechanic does not understand electronic he should not be messing with sensor.
If you have a frayed wire to a sensor it needs some attention. The copper will corrode, with oxygen and time and that will build resistance changing the value the sensor reports.
Fans DO NOT run all the time as stated above. It can take 10-15 minutes for the first fan to kick on and depending on how cold it is the second fan my not come on at all. As a general rule fan should not need to run at highway speeds.
By disconnection the coolant sensor you put the car in Limp Home Mode. Since the signal for the coolant sensor is out of range (since it disconnected) The system will ignore most sensors and run on a predefined fuel and spark map. First thing a real mechanic would do is reconnect the coolant sensor start the car clear the codes and verify the temp in the computer is about the same as the engine temp. If not fix it. If so then verify the fans are turning when they should.
The big question is, has the car over heated on you?
If you have a frayed wire to a sensor it needs some attention. The copper will corrode, with oxygen and time and that will build resistance changing the value the sensor reports.
Fans DO NOT run all the time as stated above. It can take 10-15 minutes for the first fan to kick on and depending on how cold it is the second fan my not come on at all. As a general rule fan should not need to run at highway speeds.
By disconnection the coolant sensor you put the car in Limp Home Mode. Since the signal for the coolant sensor is out of range (since it disconnected) The system will ignore most sensors and run on a predefined fuel and spark map. First thing a real mechanic would do is reconnect the coolant sensor start the car clear the codes and verify the temp in the computer is about the same as the engine temp. If not fix it. If so then verify the fans are turning when they should.
The big question is, has the car over heated on you?
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