Coolant puddle on floor, Need help troubleshooting the problem.
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Im about to clean the maf and the iac valve. Anyway, is there anywhere or anyone who happens to have a diagram or something of where all the little vacuum hoses attach.I have the Haynes manual and a service manual... what category does "vacuum hoses" fall under? There was 1 line and I am not sure where it was supposed to go. It was in the "bundle" with the fuel lines. I hooked the fuel lines up to the fuel rail, and was like where does this thing plug in to? well it was long enough and sort of stuck in a shape that made me think it would go over the plenum and attach to the back side of the MAP sensor. So I attached it there.... Im just not sure if that is where it is supposed to go. I honestly cant think of or find anywhere else it would go... That's why I'm hoping to find a diagram of where all the little hoses go. Thanks! Crossing my fingers that cleaning the maf and iac fix the idle issue, otherwise I'll be searching for a vacuum leak...
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Cleaned the MAF.
Update on the idling- after MAF cleaning it started idling at 1000rpm -rough idle- for a good few minutes- then dropped down a bit and then shot up to 3000rpm and climbed to 4200rpm. Pressing the accelerator a little caused it to drop down, then pressing the accelerator was doing nothing at all. I used some pliers to move the accelerator bracket thing on the engine and moving it a little did nothing, moved it a little more and the rpms shot up to 3000 again. I turned off the engine, there was smoke- I guess bluish white? Coming up from maybe behind the engine. I’m not sure. The alternator felt pretty hot, the two hoses that attach below the alternator were hot. I didn’t bother touching the plenum. Is it possible that coolant is blocked somewhere? The temperature gauge didn’t say it was overheating and the only check engine codes were for the MAF and the IAC registered higher than normal idle speed (wow really? I didn’t notice...). Anyway, I really want to clean the IAC valve, and then move on from there. Any insight would be helpful. Learning a lot here, slightly frustrated, hoping my car isn’t a demon and that I can actually fix it. I drove it to the gas station this morning and other than high idling it felt good driving it. No hesitating or random jumping rpms while driving, shifting was good. I can fix it... I can fix it... I can fix it....
**update- after sitting in the driveway for an hour the alternator and plenum are still pretty warm to the touch...shouldn’t it be cooled off by now?**
Update on the idling- after MAF cleaning it started idling at 1000rpm -rough idle- for a good few minutes- then dropped down a bit and then shot up to 3000rpm and climbed to 4200rpm. Pressing the accelerator a little caused it to drop down, then pressing the accelerator was doing nothing at all. I used some pliers to move the accelerator bracket thing on the engine and moving it a little did nothing, moved it a little more and the rpms shot up to 3000 again. I turned off the engine, there was smoke- I guess bluish white? Coming up from maybe behind the engine. I’m not sure. The alternator felt pretty hot, the two hoses that attach below the alternator were hot. I didn’t bother touching the plenum. Is it possible that coolant is blocked somewhere? The temperature gauge didn’t say it was overheating and the only check engine codes were for the MAF and the IAC registered higher than normal idle speed (wow really? I didn’t notice...). Anyway, I really want to clean the IAC valve, and then move on from there. Any insight would be helpful. Learning a lot here, slightly frustrated, hoping my car isn’t a demon and that I can actually fix it. I drove it to the gas station this morning and other than high idling it felt good driving it. No hesitating or random jumping rpms while driving, shifting was good. I can fix it... I can fix it... I can fix it....
**update- after sitting in the driveway for an hour the alternator and plenum are still pretty warm to the touch...shouldn’t it be cooled off by now?**
Last edited by JennROCKS81; Aug 21, 2018 at 11:39 PM.
April 2011 ROTM
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 22,016
From: Tokeland, Washington
ROTM Winner's Club
you may be better off if you get a paper manual. https://www.ebay.com/i/362337302063?chn=ps its hard to find some things using computer, lol, at least for me it is.
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
you may be better off if you get a paper manual. https://www.ebay.com/i/362337302063?chn=ps its hard to find some things using computer, lol, at least for me it is.
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Update! Im feeling pretty good about things right now. I cleaned the IAC, found a hose that needed a clamp, and fixed the little rubber bracket thing that clamps on the battery. I jacked the car up as high as I felt comfortable, and started it up. At first it was idling 3000-3200 rpm, I let it go and after a few minutes was able to bleed some air out of the coolant. I looked at the little accelerator bracket and it was sort of open, like someone was ever so slightly pressing the gas pedal. I used a screw driver and pushed it closed and rpms dropped to 1000. I let it idle like that for a few minutes and then decided I would shut it down and check codes. I got a TPS circuit sensor low code and the same MAF sensor code as before. I cleared the codes, and decided I should start it up and see if I could bleed anymore air from the coolant. When I started it, it was idling at 2000 rpm and I think it sounded pretty good. No more of that loping rough idle it was doing yesterday.very steady. I pressed the gas a little and reved it to 3000 and it came right back down to 2100, which was only 100 more rpms than it was idling at when I started it. I let it run for a good while and checked the coolant to bleed air and check the level. Kept an eye on the temp guage and it read 210, would start to go just above 210 and then a blower fan came on and it went back down to 210. I shut it down and checked for codes, and the only one I got was the TPS code. So, all in all I think Im doing pretty good. I just need to figure out what is up with the TPS and why it's throwing that codePO122. It still smokes a little but not like it was yesterday. Im starting to feel like it may just be old oil and coolant that leaked burning off. It doesnt seem to be overheating. This is the best its run since I started tearing it apart, and I have to say... Im a little bit proud of myself for not killing the car. It's starting to look like we might just be able to drive it again! I even renewed the registration and got insurance for it again (I do not want big tickets for those things during test drives!)
What is the difference between a thermostat that is for 210 degrees and one that is for 180? I was telling my husband the temp was at 210 and he said it used to run 180. Well I didnt know that and got the 210 degree thermostat. Should I go back and get the 180?
What is the difference between a thermostat that is for 210 degrees and one that is for 180? I was telling my husband the temp was at 210 and he said it used to run 180. Well I didnt know that and got the 210 degree thermostat. Should I go back and get the 180?
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
New TPS sensor
well I got a new tps sensor today and I’ll put it in tonight or tomorrow. I tried testing the old one to see if it was bad but I wasn’t really understanding it, so I figured I’d just get a new one. I guess my only concern would be that there’s a wire problem and it causes the new sensor to fail. Is that possible? Or would it just not work until I find the wire problem?
Last edited by JennROCKS81; Aug 25, 2018 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Spelling correction
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
well I got a new tps sensor today and I’ll put it in tonight or tomorrow. I tried testing the old one to see if it was bad but I wasn’t really understanding it, so I figured I’d just get a new one. I guess my only concern would be that there’s a wire problem and it causes the new sensor to fail. Is that possible? Or would it just not work until I find the wire problem?
Last edited by JennROCKS81; Aug 25, 2018 at 11:01 PM. Reason: forgot information
Thread Starter
|
In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Ok, so I figured out how to test the tps sensor. Amazing what sleep can do to reset your brain. I know what each wire does now, and I am not getting any signal from the signal wire. I sometimes get .01 volts, but according to what I’ve read and watched it should be around .35 to .45. The GM repair manual says replace the connector. I’m going to call around and see if I can find a place that has one in stock and try that.
