success with the tps! Got the correct readings in the multimeter and no more po122 or whatever it was. Now the MAF gave a po102 the other day, took it off and cleaned it and it wasn’t giving me codes, but yesterday and today it’s giving the Po102. Time to figure out this one. I’m super happy about the tps though. That one was making me lose my mind.

A little more info of whats going on- Now when I try to start it, it will only start if I am pressing the gas pedal a little, then I have to keep my foot on the gas or it immediately stalls out. I am still getting the MAF code po102 and now po101, but not the tps code and no other codes are showing up. I dont know what to make of this. *confused*

Would the MAF sensor issues cause this starting issue where it won’t start without pressing the gas pedal?

I know the TPS has to go on a certain way, if I managed to put it on improperly, I think that would cause the starting problem, but if it was on improperly, I wouldn’t have had a successful test with the TPS right? Cause I tested it with my daughter pressing the accelerator slowly and evenly and the readings on the multimeter went up smoothly and then decreased smoothly as she slowly let off the accelerator. I probably won’t work on the car til this weekend- school has started so that means back to work for me! If you guys could give me some ideas of what to check I’d really appreciate it. I’m seeing a ton of different causes for the starting issue when I search the Internet, and I’m not sure where to start. I’m thinking start at the MAF after I check the tps and make sure it’s on right, but to test the MAF it says let it idle for 15 minutes... kinda hard when it won’t start. I guess I could sit there with my foot on the gas for 15 minutes if I have to!

good ideas, Thank you. I’ll check wires and retest the tps. I’ll look in the book in my spare time as well. I don’t know why I haven’t checked the book for the starting problem. Seems like that should have been the first place I checked. Thank you for reminding me to use my resources!

Also- I ordered the oem service manual from eBay.

Ok. So I have the tps working and the MAF was bad and I replaced it. There was a fuel injector not clipped in right and was leaking from the top when the fuel pump primed. Got it reseated in there right, no more fuel leaking. Now all I have to do is figure out why it won’t start unless my foot is on the gas. It will hold a steady idle at 900 with my foot on the gas, if I let it go to 500 it trys to idle up and then stalls out. I had my husband start it and there were a few puffs of black smoke out the tailpipe but only in the first few seconds. So close to getting to drive it! Just gotta tweak these last few problems. Also- I no longer have any check engine codes popping up.

so to quick recap: replaced upper and lower intake manifold gaskets, cleaned IAC, replaced connector for TPS and put in a new MAF and new MAF connector.
I need to get a new exhaust/vacuum line that goes from the FPR to the MAP- not sure whether it’s considered exhaust or vacuum but whatever it is, it’s missing. So where do I look next? I know this problem has a solution!
*edit*. This might seem dumb and maybe like a no brainer... but would bad gas cause this starting problem? The gas in it sat for like a year, and I added some seafoam gas stuff to it and 8 gallons of fresh gas... I don’t think this should be overlooked. I may just siphon out the gas tomorrow and put some brand new fuel in it with some more sea foam additive. What do you guys think? Good idea?

Jenn

So my husband went and got 10 gallons of premium fuel and put it in the car, it took about 9.5 gallons (wanted to dilute any bad gas that was still in there). We’ve driven it a couple times and it is doing better. It doesn’t stall when you drive it- like when you reach speed or let off the gas to coast- no more stalling. Starting is still rough, but after you drive it, it will hold an unsteady idle between 500-900 rpms. I am going to get a fpr hose today because I know I need it! And if getting that doesn’t solve the problem of the idle and starting, I will then check the temp sensor and spark plug wires . Craby- whoever put the cables on before me used a label maker and labeled them so it was very easy to hook them back up. Im hoping that once I have the fpr hose and that it’s been driven a few more times that the PCM has relearned everything it needed to relearn- cause it seems like each time we drive it, it gets a little bit better. Thank you for that link you posted craby. I will have a look at it.

Thanks guys! It’s so close to being back to running! I’m so excited and I can’t wait until we can drive it all the time again!

Jenn