Coolant puddle on floor, Need help troubleshooting the problem.
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
lol, ya they get dirty. plastic elbow is on the front. look here, shows it at about 50 on the meter. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNSsOov3js0
excellent video! The elbows I have not gotten to yet, and now I know what they look like so that's awesome. That engine was so clean. It made it a lot easier to see different parts. Thank you!
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
What now!?
ok- so I got the plenum off and that upper gasket, now I got the lower part off and can see the gasket with the square holes. That lower part I just took off is really oily and greasy. How many elbows are there? I see one. The Valve covers are still on. Should I change gaskets on these? There is a lot of gunk in the square holes that the lower part was sitting on. I can’t believe I’ve gotten this far... so what’s next?
oh- also, what is the proper name for the elbow? The person at oreilly auto didn’t know what it is so couldn’t look it up...
oh- also, what is the proper name for the elbow? The person at oreilly auto didn’t know what it is so couldn’t look it up...
Last edited by JennROCKS81; Oct 4, 2017 at 06:12 PM. Reason: Forgot to ask a question and didn’t want to make a second post.
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here are the metal ones i used, as you see they are called heater hose elbows. GM 3.8L BUICK CHEVROLET OLDSMOBILE PONTIAC HEATER HOSE ELBOWS Aluminum Up & Low | eBay there are two. i took my valve covers off and didnt put back on till after intake was on. i do think you need to take them off.
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Thread locker?
what kind of thread locker do I use on the bolts for the manifold?
Yeah, it’s been awhile since I posted... this repair is taking me forever. I haven’t had a lot of time to work on it, there is always so much other stuff to do when you’re a wife/mom/teacher. Hopefully nothing else is ruined from it sitting so long. Sometimes I think I should have just paid the $1500 or more to have the shop fix it. But I did start taking an automotive technician course at an online college! I’m learning a lot and I like it.
Thanks in advance for the info on the thread locker I should use.
Yeah, it’s been awhile since I posted... this repair is taking me forever. I haven’t had a lot of time to work on it, there is always so much other stuff to do when you’re a wife/mom/teacher. Hopefully nothing else is ruined from it sitting so long. Sometimes I think I should have just paid the $1500 or more to have the shop fix it. But I did start taking an automotive technician course at an online college! I’m learning a lot and I like it.
Thanks in advance for the info on the thread locker I should use.
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Did you grab the GM manual? If it gives a thread locking requirement you can normally find equivalent. Anytime you are dealing with short bolts and aluminum parts it is critical to follow the factory specs. I believe the intake could be torque angle. Any added lubrication could throw of the initial torque.
Blue Loctite is the strongest I would use on something I knew may have to come back apart. Red only if I can get heat to it. Liquid Teflon only if GM requires. If the factory has no call out clean dry and torqued correctly is fine.
Blue Loctite is the strongest I would use on something I knew may have to come back apart. Red only if I can get heat to it. Liquid Teflon only if GM requires. If the factory has no call out clean dry and torqued correctly is fine.
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA
Did you grab the GM manual? If it gives a thread locking requirement you can normally find equivalent. Anytime you are dealing with short bolts and aluminum parts it is critical to follow the factory specs. I believe the intake could be torque angle. Any added lubrication could throw of the initial torque.
Blue Loctite is the strongest I would use on something I knew may have to come back apart. Red only if I can get heat to it. Liquid Teflon only if GM requires. If the factory has no call out clean dry and torqued correctly is fine.
Blue Loctite is the strongest I would use on something I knew may have to come back apart. Red only if I can get heat to it. Liquid Teflon only if GM requires. If the factory has no call out clean dry and torqued correctly is fine.
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If you use the red you will not get it back a part. Whenever I work on an engine and someone used red on anything except headers I curse them. Blue is the strongest I would use.
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
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From: Red Mountain WA
You guys won’t believe it!
I have finished putting it back together, changed the oil and refilled the coolant. I am working on making sure all the air has bled out of the coolant. I only found one bleed screw thing on the hose leading to the thermostat.... is there another one I’m missing somewhere?
Anyway, it starts! It runs! It don’t run good- but it runs. We ran the codes and there is something up with the sensors. I probably hooked them up wrong... I got code PO102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input. Would this make it idle rough? It starts up, idles high- like about 2000/2500 rpm, then either drops to 1000 rpm and idles steady but rough sounding, or it drops down to 0 and almost stalls before jumping up to 2000 again and then dropping to 1000rpm. I did drive it for about 3 miles (up to 40mph) and it did pretty good. I’m going to research about it, but any info you guys have would be extremely helpful!
thanks for all the help!
It was a as a proud moment when the car started. I’m disappointed that I can’t just drive off into the sunset, but at least it is running!
Anyway, it starts! It runs! It don’t run good- but it runs. We ran the codes and there is something up with the sensors. I probably hooked them up wrong... I got code PO102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input. Would this make it idle rough? It starts up, idles high- like about 2000/2500 rpm, then either drops to 1000 rpm and idles steady but rough sounding, or it drops down to 0 and almost stalls before jumping up to 2000 again and then dropping to 1000rpm. I did drive it for about 3 miles (up to 40mph) and it did pretty good. I’m going to research about it, but any info you guys have would be extremely helpful!
thanks for all the help!
It was a as a proud moment when the car started. I’m disappointed that I can’t just drive off into the sunset, but at least it is running!
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I have finished putting it back together, changed the oil and refilled the coolant. I am working on making sure all the air has bled out of the coolant. I only found one bleed screw thing on the hose leading to the thermostat.... is there another one I’m missing somewhere?
Anyway, it starts! It runs! It don’t run good- but it runs. We ran the codes and there is something up with the sensors. I probably hooked them up wrong... I got code PO102 Mass or Volume Air flow circuit low input. Would this make it idle rough? It starts up, idles high- like about 2000/2500 rpm, then either drops to 1000 rpm and idles steady but rough sounding, or it drops down to 0 and almost stalls before jumping up to 2000 again and then dropping to 1000rpm. I did drive it for about 3 miles (up to 40mph) and it did pretty good. I’m going to research about it, but any info you guys have would be extremely helpful!
Thread Starter
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In the Staging Lanes
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 75
From: Red Mountain WA