I tested my fuel pressure yesterday. It looks good to me. When you turn key to on it goes up to 50psi. When the fuel pump turns off it drops to 42psi. After 10 minutes of sitting there the psi only dropped to 40psi, which according to my manual is in the good range as far as drop in pressure. Then the manual said to relieve pressure down to 10 psi and wait 10 minutes. The psi stayed at 10psi. So this means Im not leaking fuel anywhere and my fuel pump is providing good pressure. The next step in the manual was to remove the vacuum hose from the MAP and apply 10-14 lbs of pressure to the fuel pressure regulator, but I don’t have anything to do that with so...

Im going to check the ECT today. I finally found information explaining why my ECT has 3 pins instead of the more common 2 pin connectors. Now I can finish checking the ECT. I checked the wiring harness for 5 volts from the signal wire and the ground wire is grounded.

The rest of my plan is as follows:
if ECT bad- replace and see if it fixes my no start problem.
if good next-
check/clean EGR
check fuel injectors to make sure they’re being told to turn on
if need be- remove injectors and clean them/check flow/spray patterns.

So that’s the plan. Is there anything I’m overlooking?

I was attempting to test the ECT. It looks like I got a good resistance reading on the cold start- key in on position. So I started the car and was holding it at about 1000 rpms to let the engine warm up so I could test it at running temp. After a few minutes I got a check engine light and honestly I was like yay! What’s it telling me. It gave me codes P1133 (HO2 sensor 1 bank 1 insufficient switching ) and code P1153 (bank 2 sensor 1 insufficient switching). I guess I need to check those out now. Would they be possibly causing the no start unless foot on the gas problem? Cause after I checked the ECT I was going to pull off the EGR and check it. But I’ll probably look at these HO2 sensors first now.