Chewed wiring
My '95 Trans Am M6 has about 72k miles on it and has always been garaged. A few years ago some mice decided to make a home of my garage and somehow also found their way inside the car. There were a lot of eaten acorns inside the passenger side kick panel. They must have also gnawed the wiring because the power windows, locks and mirrors don't function correctly. I can lock the doors from the driver side but cannot unlock the doors from either side except by hand. I can also operate the driver side window up and down, but the passenger window won't go up or down from either side of the car.
I've dropped the kick panels on both sides plus the panel under the steering wheel and removed the glove box as well. However, I do not see any damage (so far). I know that the passenger window motor is functional as I was able to jumper it up and down. This was only done as a test to verify bad wiring and exclude the devices themselves as faulty.
In reading through the factory manuals, I've seen the "cross car harness". Does the dash need to be removed to access this? I saw a video on YouTube (by "Dee Struggles") where he removes the dash and makes it look easy but I really do not want to do this!
Any guidance on where I should look for the damaged wiring would be much appreciated. Thank you.
I've dropped the kick panels on both sides plus the panel under the steering wheel and removed the glove box as well. However, I do not see any damage (so far). I know that the passenger window motor is functional as I was able to jumper it up and down. This was only done as a test to verify bad wiring and exclude the devices themselves as faulty.
In reading through the factory manuals, I've seen the "cross car harness". Does the dash need to be removed to access this? I saw a video on YouTube (by "Dee Struggles") where he removes the dash and makes it look easy but I really do not want to do this!
Any guidance on where I should look for the damaged wiring would be much appreciated. Thank you.
gonna need to get the wiring diagrams and do some tracing to see where the power stops. if you haven't download the factory service manual for your year. it will have the diagrams in it and maybe give you some trouble shooting tables to follow.
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October 2009 ROTM
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Removing a dash is not as big a deal as I once thought as long as you have a factory procedure and follow it. I know it looks scary but in the end most times its much less work. I have seen people spend days with their feet up in the air trying to not remove the dash only to find the issue within two hours after removing it.
One of the added benefits if you do it right is you can tighten everything up as you put it back together. things tend to shake loose after 27 years and you will notice dash rattles. This process could greatly reduce that and make the car sound newer.
I had a customer who sons pet rabbit was left in the garage with a brand new Irock. Dang bunny chewed thought the computer wiring harness. He was willing to shell out the $700 to have me solder and heat shrink every wire but he was warned it may void his warranty, In the end he turned into his insurance and had the harness replaced. If you have full coverage it can be a comprehensive. That type of claim normally has lower deductible and tends to not raise your rates like a wreck would.
One of the added benefits if you do it right is you can tighten everything up as you put it back together. things tend to shake loose after 27 years and you will notice dash rattles. This process could greatly reduce that and make the car sound newer.
I had a customer who sons pet rabbit was left in the garage with a brand new Irock. Dang bunny chewed thought the computer wiring harness. He was willing to shell out the $700 to have me solder and heat shrink every wire but he was warned it may void his warranty, In the end he turned into his insurance and had the harness replaced. If you have full coverage it can be a comprehensive. That type of claim normally has lower deductible and tends to not raise your rates like a wreck would.
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