When to change oil! Third Gen Camaro
#11
02-17-2016, 12:39 PM
Funny no one mentioned filters how they drive. The biggest contaminator of oil is carbon blowing by the rings. If you drive like an old lady or you happen to drive long distances with out starts and stops then your oil will last much longer(5k no problem). If you rocket stop light to stop light 3,000 would be the max I would go and if you are taking it to the track I would change the oil at the end of a long weekend with two weekend max. Heck on a real race car we drained the oil every Monday and sent out a sample to be tested.
If you car has higher miles it needs more oil changes, wear on the rings allows more carbon by.
Fine filters keep the oil cleaner longer BUT they will also plug up faster.
Time effects bio oils, if you are not running synthetic you should change your oil at least twice a year (assuming you drive low miles). once the oils start to break down it seem like it holds on the carbon. Once a year will not cause sludge per-say but it is a good bet you will end up with a lifter tap. Lifter tap due to carbon is a lot easier to prevent then it is to fix.
Don't keep putting any stop leak additive in your engine. I work for a seal manufacture, how stop leak works is it softens the seals chemical. In the seal world we would say anything that softens a seal is not compatible with that seal. In many cases the softening cause the seal to also swell. Eventually the seal will become mush and push right out of the motor. Yes if you have a dry hard seal stop leak may help but if you have a tear it could make it worse.
If you car has higher miles it needs more oil changes, wear on the rings allows more carbon by.
Fine filters keep the oil cleaner longer BUT they will also plug up faster.
Time effects bio oils, if you are not running synthetic you should change your oil at least twice a year (assuming you drive low miles). once the oils start to break down it seem like it holds on the carbon. Once a year will not cause sludge per-say but it is a good bet you will end up with a lifter tap. Lifter tap due to carbon is a lot easier to prevent then it is to fix.
Don't keep putting any stop leak additive in your engine. I work for a seal manufacture, how stop leak works is it softens the seals chemical. In the seal world we would say anything that softens a seal is not compatible with that seal. In many cases the softening cause the seal to also swell. Eventually the seal will become mush and push right out of the motor. Yes if you have a dry hard seal stop leak may help but if you have a tear it could make it worse.
Last edited by Gorn; 02-17-2016 at 12:48 PM.
#12
02-17-2016, 06:53 PM
Funny no one mentioned filters how they drive. The biggest contaminator of oil is carbon blowing by the rings. If you drive like an old lady or you happen to drive long distances with out starts and stops then your oil will last much longer(5k no problem). If you rocket stop light to stop light 3,000 would be the max I would go and if you are taking it to the track I would change the oil at the end of a long weekend with two weekend max. Heck on a real race car we drained the oil every Monday and sent out a sample to be tested.
If you car has higher miles it needs more oil changes, wear on the rings allows more carbon by.
Fine filters keep the oil cleaner longer BUT they will also plug up faster.
Time effects bio oils, if you are not running synthetic you should change your oil at least twice a year (assuming you drive low miles). once the oils start to break down it seem like it holds on the carbon. Once a year will not cause sludge per-say but it is a good bet you will end up with a lifter tap. Lifter tap due to carbon is a lot easier to prevent then it is to fix.
Don't keep putting any stop leak additive in your engine. I work for a seal manufacture, how stop leak works is it softens the seals chemical. In the seal world we would say anything that softens a seal is not compatible with that seal. In many cases the softening cause the seal to also swell. Eventually the seal will become mush and push right out of the motor. Yes if you have a dry hard seal stop leak may help but if you have a tear it could make it worse.
If you car has higher miles it needs more oil changes, wear on the rings allows more carbon by.
Fine filters keep the oil cleaner longer BUT they will also plug up faster.
Time effects bio oils, if you are not running synthetic you should change your oil at least twice a year (assuming you drive low miles). once the oils start to break down it seem like it holds on the carbon. Once a year will not cause sludge per-say but it is a good bet you will end up with a lifter tap. Lifter tap due to carbon is a lot easier to prevent then it is to fix.
Don't keep putting any stop leak additive in your engine. I work for a seal manufacture, how stop leak works is it softens the seals chemical. In the seal world we would say anything that softens a seal is not compatible with that seal. In many cases the softening cause the seal to also swell. Eventually the seal will become mush and push right out of the motor. Yes if you have a dry hard seal stop leak may help but if you have a tear it could make it worse.
I have a rebuilt engine with less than 5k miles on it.
At one point, after figureing out that i hada crack in my in manifold and after i cleaned up the antifreeze and put on a new intake manifold. the lifters would click, so i put in some lucas stop leak and it fixed the problem within 2 drives.
The stop oil leak looks sticky, so i thought sticky stuff would help fill openings. or cracks w/e
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