if you been following my posts ya know I have an 84 HO that I got cheap and am rebuilding after it sat 10 years. I rebuilt the carb over the winter and me and my bro got it all adjusted and running sweet yesterday, so, being all happy with myself, shut it down and did some bothersome chores I been blowing off. at 8 pm the sun was still up and I was bored, so decided to pull it out and clean up all the clutter of tools laing about from all the recent work. started it up and it made a funny light clanking sound then died ( always dies first start when cold). started it again and BAM BAM BAM BAM BAM. rod knock. I have never had a bearing go so was amazed how quickly they go. luckily my bro has a 307 he is willing to part with that has a WAY nasty cam in it. it was bought that way when the chevelle ( his 71) was bought. we never could get it to run well enough for the street. this thing has like a .425 lift intake. I didnt check the exhaust lobe. anyway if the cam in the 305 is anygood I will be using it, since the lift, duration and C/L are better then the stock cam in the 307. the reason I am using the 307 and not a 350 is the 307 is free, and I aint working right now. the 307 just recently had alot of machine work done to it by the previos owner, who wanted to drag race it, but got discusted when he blew his BB and couldnt get this one to run, and it is VERY clean inside, so I belive it was recently done.
recently I asked why one couldnt use a 305 and build it up to a 383, since a SB is a SB and weather it was strok or bore? I was told the wall would be to thin, which sound ok, but, since I now have a blown 305 and my bro has a stock 350 bare block in the basement( for his 383, coming soon), and since I am a Machinist by trade (22 years), I plan on getting out my bore gages and other tools and see actually whats what, and do the math myself. not that I dont believe the respondent, I just have the opertunity to see for myself and I will let everyone know what I find, hopefull by this weekend. I am thinking that maybe why the 350 is always used is because the 350 has 4 bolt mains. I personally was going to use a 2 bolt 350 block anyway, since I will rarly be hot rodding it and will never see the strip. I just like the way it sounds.

 

Aw, dude that sucks But, i hope every thing works out for the better with your bros 307. Goodluck with that man

 

Engine blocks aren't a "one size fits all" and then bored out to different sizes.
Most of the time, an .060 overbore from the original bore size is getting close to max. You may find a block that can comfortably get bored a little more than that due to slight differences in casting thicknesses, but it's not the norm. Plus, the larger you bore out a cylinder tends to make the engine run hotter since the cylinder wall is thinner and now closer to the water jackets.

 

I have the 305 almost ready tio remove, and I have 2 of what may be many questions.

1) the 305 manifold is aluminum, but has an EGR valve on it. can that be blocked with a plate and not cause issues? or, I have available the 1971 manifold that is cast that I can use with no egr valve at all.

2) the distributor from the 305 is HEI, but has 4 extra wires out the back that I assume go to the computer. can I NOT hook these up and still successfully use this dist., or should I just get a different dist.? I am tring to eliminate the computer all togeather.

other then that everything is going pretty well. I am a bit surprised by all the worn out vacuum lines that I am finding. I am kinda surprised we got it to run with all the leaks.

and camaro, I understand what your saying and I believe you, but since I have the opertunity to check it out I may as well. thats just the nature of me. lol.

 

I blew up the 305 in my 92 on purpose, just so I could get a 350. Cast iron block and heads. I always use an aluminum intake and a replaced the ditributor with a new HEI streetfighter. Awesome results. At the end of my build I had no computer, two main wires, and 3 vacuum lines in the whole engine compartment. 420 hp all motor. Thats not including all the extras, you know, the guts of the motor. And no, you will not have any issues with using a block off plate on the manifold. You will have to lose the emissions and computer. Cause if not your car will run horribly and your check engine light will permanently be on.

 

dang, ive never heard of a rod knock going bad that fast. when my 305 developed a knock (a week after hitting 160 mph on the turnpike), it last about 2 weeks of driving to school and work (115 miles a day), and probably a few more hours after that before i took it full bore down the road and sent the internals scattering. i took it apart finally last month and found about 35 large peices and hundreds of small peices in the oil pan. the crank was intact, but 2 connecting rods were gone, 1 piston was scattered and 2 damaged, hole in the cylinder, cam was in 4 peices, and i found a few peices of piston in the lifter valley. ill get pics up in a few weeks when i get a new computer

 

that sucks mate.. hope you can get it fix..

 

got the motor in and I cant believe how weak my 305 was to the 307. it must have been in pretty bad shape. I can spin the tires easily ( almost to easily) now. runs sweet...

 

pics of the new motor can be seen at cardomain.com , just look up jim022659. I am thinking of keeping the dual horn air filter and using something like the metal exhaust tubing for a cloths drier piped to the hi beams since they are not needed. what ya think?

 

How did you get your converter to lock?