I've read through the posts on here, and forgive me if someone pointed it out already, but, if a resistor was installed on the VATS line permamnently, and the VATS key is still being used, wouldn't that mean that the VATS module is seeing half the voltage that it ought to be seeing? I would say that if you have a blank key, no resistor, that you ought to try that, unless the VATS line was removed completely from the key switch, and spliced together, in which case the key should have no bearing whatsoever on the system. I would also like to point out that if at any given time, if the VATS has a constant reference due to the wire being spliced, and there was some spike or drop in reference voltage, such as thejob being donewith the battery connected, and the wires being soldered,the system will wait 2 to 5 minutes (depending on the incarnation of the VATS module used in this car) before allowing another atempt at startup from the time the reference signal went and stayed dead. You might want to try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and try again, if you haven't already.[/align][/align]Just a thought.[/align]

 

I don't much about this mess, I am trying to learn all I can, but I think you made a good point about the key without the resistor in it. That's kinda what I thought. If the vats has been bypassed why do I need the key with the resistor in it. Why can't I just go to WalMart and have a key made. I don't have a non resistor key, but I will have 1 made and try that. I had a new key made with the resistor in it. Someone told me the resistor in the old key might be bad.I do remember disconnecting the battery and left it disconnected for awhile, but I can't remember if we tried that before or after the resistor was put in.I ampretty sure that the battery cables were not disconnected when the resistor was put in. All the guy that worked on it for me donewas put the resistor in the wire likes it shows in this picture.
http://shbox.com/1/air_bag_disc_2.jpg Someone also said that you can jump a wire from the radio fuse to the pcm fuse and it will start that way. Haven't got to try that yet. Do you think if I try that it will mess up anything? Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate it.

 

Good thought Flufy
We all work on the assumption that the person doing this bypass at least put enough thought into disconecting the wires from the Ignition lock.
I recall now years ago a worker in a wrecking yard had a salvaged Corvette and he cut a non resistor key for it and put a resistor in the connector. He said he did not know the proper value but was able to start the car after waiting a few minutes.

 

replacing the ignition switch will not work-----you have to pull the sweering wheel cut the 2 wires that go to the switch that the key goes in---replace the switch with an early model camaro switch ---you can get it at advance auto parts for about $12.00 with a new key---the resistor goes in between the 2 wires that are conect to the vats key switch---i have done this several times and if it is the vats system the car will start after you replace the switch and put in the right resistor---again you have to pull the steering wheel in order to do this right

 

I always work under the assumption that Mr. and Mrs. Cutomer don't know wtf they're doing if they touched the car themselves. Doesn't take much longer to do in diagnostic terms, and oftentimes it takes less, and it makes me a hell of alot more money that way. "If they knew what they were doing, why the hellis the car in my stall?" is the question I always ask myself if I start leaning towards that thought.

 

I always liked the smart and mighty customer that would come in my shop and tell me what to fix and after I charge them for doing what they told me and the problem was not fixed I ask them "who did you have diag it?" They would say " Oh I did it". Then I would get paid for what they wanted done and diag and the proper repair afterwards.

 

I was just looking over a diagram of the pass key system and had a thought. In the module there are some switched grounds. What if a person were to take those wires from the module that lead to the ECM and starter relay and ground them? Does it look as if that is eleiminating the module? Any one think it would work? I would try it on mine but I was just under there haveing a hell of a time getting to stuff because its all tucked really well and I am exhausted now. Who gets what I am thinking of and wants to try it?

OOPS! forgot pic [&o]

[IMG]local://upfiles/4028/C3846E1B0D404E64990B25D46DAEF236.jpg[/IMG]

 

The VATS bypass is does not really bypass the VATS, but bypasses the resistor in the key by wiring a resistor of the same value directly to leads connecting the key sensors to to the VATS module. The VATS module itself cannot by bypassed as the PCM looks for a continuosdigital coded signal coming from the VATS module. No signal and the PCM will only fire theinjectors for 30 seconds.

Check that the clutch switch (manual)or transmission position switch (auto) are OK, otherwise no crank.
Check theft deterrent relay behind inst panel, this will only allow or prevent cranking
Check fuses #4 & #5 in inst panel fuse block
Verify that the Theft deterrent module is working properly.