head work?
Third Generation Moderator
March 2010 ROTM
March 2010 ROTM
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 973
From: Canada
ROTM Winner's Club
RE: head work?
As far as valve seals I got quoted $900 to do mine at a Chevy dealership. Whether you can expect the same or not, I couldn't say, but I wouldn't count on it being cheap.
I'm doing mine up with my dad while I'm on holidays next week >.>
I'm doing mine up with my dad while I'm on holidays next week >.>
August 2009 ROTM
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,143
From: Lima, OH and Ft. Lauderdale, FL
ROTM Winner's Club
RE: head work?
Really, it is harder to take the heads off and to put them back on than it is to refurbish them. I did the head on my neon, and the heads on my 350 without any problem, and it only cost me about $10 bucks.
1. Remove heads
2. Remove valves, springs, retainers, etc.
3. Start by spraying down with a hose or pressure washer if they are real bad, if not, skip to 4.
4. Spray the heads down in engine degreaser, then take a drill and wire brush to remove any dirt on the outside of the head, in the combustion chambers, and in all the oil and cooling ports, avoiding the machined surfaces. Repeat as necessary.
5. Once you have the heads all cleaned up, take a scotch bright pad, and shine up all of the machined surfaces.
6. Check for dips in the head with a straight edge, if any are apparent, it is recommended to take the head in question to a machine shop to have it milled down.
7. Take the valves one by one and clean them up with a wire brush in a bench grinder, then clean.
8. Get a valve lapping tool, valve grinding compound, and a piece of cardboard labeled with labeled slits for each valve. Then put a bead of valve grinding compound around the seat of the valve, insert the valve into the head, and slowly work back and forth with the lapping tool until there is an even shiny ring around the valve seat and valve. Repeat 15 more times.
9. Once finished, replace each valve into the corresponding seat, and replace springs and retainers.
10. Paint with your choice of engine enamel.
I did mine in about a day, but I also took my time. Came out looking like new!
1. Remove heads
2. Remove valves, springs, retainers, etc.
3. Start by spraying down with a hose or pressure washer if they are real bad, if not, skip to 4.
4. Spray the heads down in engine degreaser, then take a drill and wire brush to remove any dirt on the outside of the head, in the combustion chambers, and in all the oil and cooling ports, avoiding the machined surfaces. Repeat as necessary.
5. Once you have the heads all cleaned up, take a scotch bright pad, and shine up all of the machined surfaces.
6. Check for dips in the head with a straight edge, if any are apparent, it is recommended to take the head in question to a machine shop to have it milled down.
7. Take the valves one by one and clean them up with a wire brush in a bench grinder, then clean.
8. Get a valve lapping tool, valve grinding compound, and a piece of cardboard labeled with labeled slits for each valve. Then put a bead of valve grinding compound around the seat of the valve, insert the valve into the head, and slowly work back and forth with the lapping tool until there is an even shiny ring around the valve seat and valve. Repeat 15 more times.
9. Once finished, replace each valve into the corresponding seat, and replace springs and retainers.
10. Paint with your choice of engine enamel.
I did mine in about a day, but I also took my time. Came out looking like new!
3rd Gear Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,268
From:
RE: head work?
I went to a machine shop and asked this very question about a year ago. They told me that a rebuild with a port and polish job on stock heads would be almost as expensive as buying a set of economy performance heads. He quoted me in the 600 to 1000 range......man thats expensive. But then again, this is Syracuse........
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