engine swap
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engine swap
I have an 86 camaro berlinetta with the 2.8 v6, i want to replace that with either the 305 or 350, but im not to sure wich one would work better or what else i would have to replace. any suggestions?????
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Joined: Dec 2006
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RE: engine swap
Copied from TGO...
This oft-asked question: What does it take to do the swap?
There is no simple answer. In fact, it would be nearly impossible to cover all the possibilities in one thread. But, here are the basics for putting a small block Chevy V8 into a car delivered with a V6 (or 4 cylinder, for that matter) from the factory. Big block swaps are covered in another sticky.
1. Anything the V6 bolts to, and anything that bolts to the V6, will be different than the V8. Only possible exceptions are AC compressor (but the hoses and brackets will be different), alternator (early V6's were different, and again the brackets & wiring are different anyway), and power steering pump (guess what - the brackets & hoses are different).
2. Emissions-legal is harder and more involved than non-emissions legal.
3. It isn't "easy", "quick", or "simple". But, many of us have done it, so obviously it is possible. Follow general disassembly discipline; take pictures before and during disassembly, label everything as you take it apart, and it will be a lot easier to put back together..
4. A donor car that came from the factory with a V8 is the best way to get all that is needed to do the swap, whether or not you use the engine and/or transmission from the donor car. It's best if the donor is the same model (Camaro or Firebird) as the receptor car. It's also best if the donor car is at least the same year or newer than the receptor car (this is doubly true if the swap is to be emissions-legal). At this point, the simplest answer is, "Everything that's different between the V6 & V8 cars, change it." But, if you insist on knowing more details, keep reading.
5. The V6 rear end is as strong as a V8 rear end, because they are the same design. Only the ratio and/or posi/non-posi are different. Often, the V6 came with a more desireable ratio for performance than the V8's did. If you want posi, a PowerTrax can be installed with common hand tools. See the Tech Articles for beefing up the factory 10-bolt rear end for engines with higher horsepower than factory.
6. You may be able to use the radiator that came in your V6 car if the upper hose connection is on the driver's side and the lower connection is on the passenger side. Otherwise, get a V8 radiator.
7. Forget about using any of the factory-type V6 exhaust on the V8. This is a perfect opportunity to upgrade to headers and high flow cat on back. A good choice for aftermarket exhaust is '86-'90 TPI single cat application headers, cat, and cat-back, even if your swap doesn't match that description. Otherwise, use the donor car pieces.
8. If the transmission you are using didn't come from a 3rd or 4th gen f-body, you're going to need some means of mounting the torque arm. B&M makes a bracket that uses the tailshaft housing mount bolts for a TH350 or TH400. A good upgrade is a crossmember/torque arm kit from our site sponsor Spohn (see sponsor ad on right). The TH700 tailshaft housing can be swapped, so if you have a non-f-body TH700, you can put an f-body housing on it.
Side note: Transmissions from 4.3 liter Chevy V6's will mount to Chevy V8's.
9. The engine control module (ECM) from the V6 won't work. Use a V8 ECM. (You may be able to just change the PROM, depending upon the V6 & V8.) The V6 tachometer has a different resistance than the V8 tach. You can change the resistor, but it's typically easier to just get a V8 tach.
10. You may be able to modify the engine harness from the V6, but it's usually easier to get a donor harness. The ECM harness will come out in one piece. Remove the plastic fender liner from the passenger side, and you can get acess to the pass-through grommet/connector. Unplug it (take off clip from the inside). In the engine compartment, I disconnected and labeled everything that went to the engine, and unbolted
This oft-asked question: What does it take to do the swap?
There is no simple answer. In fact, it would be nearly impossible to cover all the possibilities in one thread. But, here are the basics for putting a small block Chevy V8 into a car delivered with a V6 (or 4 cylinder, for that matter) from the factory. Big block swaps are covered in another sticky.
1. Anything the V6 bolts to, and anything that bolts to the V6, will be different than the V8. Only possible exceptions are AC compressor (but the hoses and brackets will be different), alternator (early V6's were different, and again the brackets & wiring are different anyway), and power steering pump (guess what - the brackets & hoses are different).
2. Emissions-legal is harder and more involved than non-emissions legal.
3. It isn't "easy", "quick", or "simple". But, many of us have done it, so obviously it is possible. Follow general disassembly discipline; take pictures before and during disassembly, label everything as you take it apart, and it will be a lot easier to put back together..
4. A donor car that came from the factory with a V8 is the best way to get all that is needed to do the swap, whether or not you use the engine and/or transmission from the donor car. It's best if the donor is the same model (Camaro or Firebird) as the receptor car. It's also best if the donor car is at least the same year or newer than the receptor car (this is doubly true if the swap is to be emissions-legal). At this point, the simplest answer is, "Everything that's different between the V6 & V8 cars, change it." But, if you insist on knowing more details, keep reading.
5. The V6 rear end is as strong as a V8 rear end, because they are the same design. Only the ratio and/or posi/non-posi are different. Often, the V6 came with a more desireable ratio for performance than the V8's did. If you want posi, a PowerTrax can be installed with common hand tools. See the Tech Articles for beefing up the factory 10-bolt rear end for engines with higher horsepower than factory.
6. You may be able to use the radiator that came in your V6 car if the upper hose connection is on the driver's side and the lower connection is on the passenger side. Otherwise, get a V8 radiator.
7. Forget about using any of the factory-type V6 exhaust on the V8. This is a perfect opportunity to upgrade to headers and high flow cat on back. A good choice for aftermarket exhaust is '86-'90 TPI single cat application headers, cat, and cat-back, even if your swap doesn't match that description. Otherwise, use the donor car pieces.
8. If the transmission you are using didn't come from a 3rd or 4th gen f-body, you're going to need some means of mounting the torque arm. B&M makes a bracket that uses the tailshaft housing mount bolts for a TH350 or TH400. A good upgrade is a crossmember/torque arm kit from our site sponsor Spohn (see sponsor ad on right). The TH700 tailshaft housing can be swapped, so if you have a non-f-body TH700, you can put an f-body housing on it.
Side note: Transmissions from 4.3 liter Chevy V6's will mount to Chevy V8's.
9. The engine control module (ECM) from the V6 won't work. Use a V8 ECM. (You may be able to just change the PROM, depending upon the V6 & V8.) The V6 tachometer has a different resistance than the V8 tach. You can change the resistor, but it's typically easier to just get a V8 tach.
10. You may be able to modify the engine harness from the V6, but it's usually easier to get a donor harness. The ECM harness will come out in one piece. Remove the plastic fender liner from the passenger side, and you can get acess to the pass-through grommet/connector. Unplug it (take off clip from the inside). In the engine compartment, I disconnected and labeled everything that went to the engine, and unbolted
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