i have an 84 camaro i wanted to do an engine swap. i was think about putting a 350 in it. how much would labor be on average to do this?

 

What engine do you have now? Most Garages will not do a swap like this unless it is a straight forward 305 to 350 swap even then there is a great many that will not take on a job like this because there is no manual that list eveything that will need done. Now you may run across a shop that the owner to one of the mechanic is a Camaro nut and knows everything involved, you would need to be real lucky If you are going from a V6 your going to need a speed shop or some guys that don't mind figuring out the fuel system, cooling system ect....

A normal engine replacment would take about 12 hours so depending on the hourly rate you can figure it out add in another $300-400 for replacment parts and gaskets. On a car this old the shop will only give you an estimate. If bolts start breaking as the motor comes out the price can go up fast. If the mechainc breaks off a couple manifold bolts and the heads need to go to a machine shop you just added another $500.

An old saying amoung mechanics is "if it breaks coming apart you pay for it if it breaks going together thats me" The theory is the mechanic should inspect and replace defective bolts before assembling anything.

Don't forget if you are adding power you will need to address the tranny and rear also. Most people that do these swaps do it themselfs because the cost involved to pay a pro is more then the car would be worth when done.

 

my buddy's shop does this type of work on occasion on older cars.

But, here is the caveat. Since you are paying for the labor you will expect warranty.

My buddy knows this as well so the swaps (replacement is different as it's like for like as Gorn eluded to) are done with crate engines or remanufactured engines from a machine shop

He will not touch used or junk yard swaps. He will not go down that slippery slope.

next, the wiring harness will be new and not junk yard. He will only install carb engines because he will not address modifying the fuel delivery system which could mean a new pump, new fuel lines and even running new lines in the engine bay........he won't touch it as that gets pricey as well and customers tend not to want to pay for the uplift to fuel injection including ECM.

Last, he buys the parts, not you. If he is putting his warranty on it then he leaves nothing for chance

He hasn't done a job for less than $6,000 and that includes the engine and supporting parts. I know because we've discussed it many times about people and their junk $1,000 engine swaps which you read about on these forums


what drives the price up

cooling system needs to be upgraded. Repairs, modifications and welding needed, aftermarket exhaust, more powerful engines, chrome etc etc

he advises people to upgrade the drivetrain but figures he'll see them back anyway

 

And this ^ is why people either do it themselves, or don't do it at all unless they have money to burn.

 

absolutely!!!

if you don't have the ability, space, time and money to do it yourself then honestly, you own the wrong vehicle if more power is what you seek.

Many folks tend to forget that a shop is a business and warranty works costs money and negative word of mouth can kill them. Reputable shops won't cut corners because you can't really afford what you want to do.

 

I can tell you it took me way longer than 12 hours. Granted I should have done a better job at stocking materials. It took me at least 8 hours to remove the engine, trans, radiator, mounts from "frame", the torque arm, and the old exhaust. It then took me at least 14 hours to install the new motor, new trans, torque arm, all brackets and accessories, new belts, hoses, radiator, fill with fluids then fire it up. I can understand why many shops won't do this...I have to agree with the above posters, if you aren't able to do the swap yourself, then try to find a vehicle with the setup you want.

 

GM used to pay 17 hours to install a crank kit in a 305 TPI Iroc. (That is removal, disassemble inspect, prep for machine shop if needed, reassemble install and test drive) Book times assume you know where every bolt is and exactly how to remove it and that you have a hoist and any special tools you may need. Air tools help A LOT! I could have the motor out of Iroc in about 3 hours. Hardest part of the Iroc was the friken heater core hoses.
Most Non-dealership shops work off of Chilton times, They are a little more forgiving then GM times. Funny how when the people that are paying the bill get to tell you how long it will take they cut things real close.