Just to preface this, I'm a Ford guy that now owns something with a Chevy 350 in it for the first time. Here's my issue. I have a 79 350 engine in my Jeep. It has an Edelbrock Performer intake and Holley 600 on it. The intake gasket is leaking some oil so I need to change it. Normally I wouldn't need to resort to the internet for this, but since I am very unfamiliar with Chevy engines....

First question: Is there a trick to getting the distributor back in in the same location? It's really an unfortunate design by Chevy to put it through the intake, but oh well.

Next: I can get to the intake bolts, but the center ones only with a wrench, can't get a ratchet in there. So how in the heck do you torque them correctly?

Last: Use permatex on all bolts? Loctite?

 

Yes, even us diehard Chevy fans have always regretted the location of the rear distributor, and the fact it goes through the intake. Before pulling the intake you should crank the engine with the cap off to direct the rotor to point towards an easy place to see the end of the rotor. Then use a felt marker to not only mark the direction, but also mark the base of the distributor shaft and a mark on the intake. Then you can pull the distributor. Once the intake is out I usually take a center punch and put a mark on my felt mark, so if I clean it up the temp mark wont disappear.
When putting it back in you need to drop the distributor with the rotor CCW back from where it will end up, as the gear will turn it into position. Sometimes the oil pump shaft will turn when pulling it, which wont let it drop back in where it needs to go. If that happens you'll need to turn the shaft on the oil pump to align. I use a Chevy priming pump tool to do this, but a long screwdriver will also work, just not as easily. I have the end of my priming tool marked so I can tell exactly where the slot is by looking at the end when it's in place. Priming tools are under $20, and well worth having if you're going to own a Chevy V8.
You will also be wise to toss the two end gaskets on your new gasket set, and instead use Ultra Black RTV gasket maker on both ends. A 1/4" bead at each end, and then the side gaskets set in place will never leak. I also use a small amount of RTV on the two water ports on each side, front and rear. This will ensure no leaks there when it's all together.
I've never used anything on the intake bolts to seal them, but some people use a little sealer on the front and rear 2 bolts adjacent to the water ports. I just haven't had a leak ever, so don't use it.
I've also never torque'd an intake bolt. I know some people do, and if you feel better you can. I wouldn't worry about the couple bolts you can't torque, as I'd just get them tight with an end wrench, and they will be fine. Can't really over tighten with a box end wrench, unless you're a real brute.