So if the return line was not used/needed and the vent line wasn't connected to the canister, can I just remove them? I don't want them visible if I can't remove them completely, guess I could just cut them back by the tank and block them off there? What did you do with yours?

 

If the fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator you areusing doesn't use a return then I'd say you can block that one off. The line on the driver's side does serve a purpose. Your fuel tank does require some kind of vent whether it be the canister line or a vented fuel cap. If you can vent it with a cap then you could block it off.

 

I have used just a vented cap on my Camaro for most of it's life after removing the charcoal canister. On my gasser I use a vent tube from the fuel cell that drops below the trunk floor and just a universal fuel filter hung on the end to allow it to vent, and keep bugs out.

 

Just thought I'd throw this out there to keep the thinking on the right track....vented gas caps only vent in, not out.

 

That's what I was thinking about doing with the line. I had read that you don't want to block it off due to expansion in the tank. Not sure if I'll look into a vented cap or not, got enough parts to buy as it is. Sure I can find a place back by the front of the tank to leave it out of sight and away from leaving fumes inside the car. Maybe just run it up alongside the filler tube with a clamp? The tank looks like it must've been replaced soon before I bought the car last year so I'm hoping it comes out easy. The lines need to be replaced and the sending unit wire is basically laying on top of the tank and is not in it's proper location. I saw a couple pieces of electrical tape on the wire so I'll see what's going on when the tank is out and I want to get it routed properly. Can someone tell me where the proper routing location of the sending unit wire is supposed to be?

 

Ahhh! That just helps push the fuel along.

 

Are you looking for routing near the tank, or the entire route from the dash to the tank? Mine is clipped in above the rear axle, and connects to the sending unit. It also has a braided sleeve that covers the last 10" or so to protect it.
On the vent tube; you can run it up above the rear axle and attach the tube to the sheetmetal above. Then just use a filter to allow the tank to breathe.

 

If using a mechanical fuel pump, you don't want to let the tank breathe...in yes, but not out. Stock vented caps like on my (pre-1971) car only vents in. It doesn't breathe out for two reasons: 1) to not vent fumes into the air, and 2) to hold pressure (and gas) to the mechanical pump that is waaaay up front, which could easily be higher than the level in the tank, letting gas otherwise siphon back. If you're running an electric fuel pump, then have at it with a free vent if that floats your boat.

 

This is getting heavy now, NO heavy breathing on my page! I'm using a mechanical pump and want this vent line to not be visible, nor ran along the complete length of the car. I'm most likely wrong, but what you're saying is this vent line lets the air breath out? Man I feel ignorant. Is it the location (high/low) of the line that would change that? I was actually thinking that running it up by the filler neck would be easy and vent right out the back away from the inside. Should I just get a vented cap and plug this thing?

With respect to the sending unit wire, just wondered where it should be routed from the tank area. I like the idea of the sleeve too! Apparantly, the wire could've benefited from that already.

 

If a tank wont feed with a mechanical pump and venting either way, then how do you explain all the dorks who run around with a rag stuffed in their inlet and still going? I've had several cars in my youth that had loose fitting caps, or caps with no rubber gasket, and they drove and ran just fine. A mechanical pump doesn't need pressure in the tank, and if it did then drawing gas out would reduce the pressure and stop the engine. The reason a cap only vents in is to keep fuel from evaporating into the air.