Finally ready to send the 327 and trans home. Trans is there as of today, engine goes in tomorrow. Can anyone tell me which of the cooler line ports on the th350 is the "out" and which is the return? I believe the top is the out but need to make sure before I run the hoses. I'd appreciate it very much.

 

The cooler doesn't need to be a certain direction, since the radiator (or remote cooler)isn't direction sensitive. It works as well either way. But the lower line is the output hot line, and upper is return cooler line.
Here's a neat video:
https://www.google.com/search?q=th35...98%3B200%3B154

 

Thanks Vall, I realize it's not direction sensitive but need to run this trans temp gauge manifold inline with the hot line. Didn't want to accidentally run it in the return line and get a false/lower reading, which appears as though I almost did. I had them backward. Neat page in the link you gave, what's strange is even the actual GM TH350 manual doesn't say a word about the cooler line ports. I appreciate it sir. I'm trying to get these lines ran so I can get the engine dropped in. It's difficult enough to get to those ports with the trans in and even tougher with the engine in there too. I'm ready to get this 327 in there TODAY!

 

Nice one. What mountings are you using?

 

HHAAA LE LUUJAHHH! HHAAA LE LUUJAHHH!!! (In my best dramatic moment of enlightenment voice)


It's in there! Well I guess I'll take the break that I was so deserving of at the time of engine installation. Of all the ridiculous problems that I have encountered at every turn on this build, I can truly say that the engine could NOT have dropped in any easier than it did. Had a harder time putting fluid in the stall converter than I did getting the engine to mate up to the trans and slide right over the mounts. Thank you heavenly car gods!! Here's a couple pics.


Now on to the 101 odds and ends before getting on the wiring. Exciting times!


clacia - if you're asking what kind of motor/trans mounts I'm using, they are solid engine and a poly trans mount. Think you can see them in a few of the pics.


I won't start complaining at a time like this, but, I'll show a pic later on of a mistake (hopefully minor) I made measuring the length of fuel line from the filter to the pump. lol!

 

Couple more without the hoist.

 

Hope you have better luck with the gilmer drive belt system than I had! I had a lot of problems at first with the darn things not centering well on the crank pulley, and tossing one pulley when it worked itself loose. Had to run the belt much looser than I thought after a supercharger guy told me they tighten up when they get hot.
Even after sorting out the troubles, and not having any more failures, it still makes a mess of the engine! The cog belts wear in, and create a fine powder that the fan blows all over the nice shiny engine parts. I'm probably going to take mine off soon, as I'm tired of constantly wiping the sooty dust off.

 

I too hope I have good luck with it. I remember having a conversation about the trouble you (and others) were having getting the belt to line up with the pulleys. When I installed the Gilmer setup the belt lines up almost perfect. It's ever so slightly forward from center on the crank pulley, but not by much. I still won't be surprised with the sooty residue, but the guy I spoke to where I bought it from told me that the belts they use don't make a mess like others. The Gilmer setup I bought was considered "used" as they used them on engines for mock up's and break-in's. Will just have to wait and see I suppose. I have other pulleys already if it comes to that. I wipe dust off the engine every day along with the frame and everything else! I have to take the belt off tomorrow so I can install the power steering pump and that belt.


Still too early to tell but I'm pleasantly surprised by how much lower the 327 is sitting in relation to the top lip of the firewall than I thought it would. I'm sure I won't be that lucky but I might not have to cut up a hood afterall? That brings me to a question however, carb spacers. Are they a must? I have an aluminum one already but it's been a while since I asked this question but with the single plane intake should I use an open spacer or a 4 hole? Not buying a bunch of different ones to experiment with but was thinking about a 1" aluminum spacer but wasn't sure about the openings on it.

 

I always prefer open spacers myself. A little less low end, but not enough difference to even feel it.
Be sure to keep an eye on the lower pulley when you start the engine! If it looks like it's even slightly off center and appears to be wobbling; stop and fix it. I found the only way mine would truly center was to grab the pulley and keep twisting CW or CCW pressure on it as I snugged the bolts. Then once they were snug I could tighten it firmly and it was OK. Just seems to be enough play in the holes that it allows the pulley to misalign when tightening it down on the balancer.
I bought mine the same as yours; supposed to be used for "mock up". Wonder how many of these setups got sold as "used, but only for mock up"?

 

Tim can you do me a solid? You car is about in the same state as mine. Can you measure from the frame rail to the pinch weld. One measurement at the very end and one 12" or so forward. Both sides. Then from the grease fitting in the upper ball joint to the firewall on both sides? Pretty please?

I have my sub frame back in and I though it was square but the engine is visibly not straight. I dont want to believe i warped this thing when I welded the seams. I made sure to go slow and jump around but my tail shaft is sitting on the hump. I hate that I gave away a good one too.

Oh yeah well on your way. Looks nice and that was the exact jack i was talking about. LOL