Not sure the diagrams will show a resistor, as it's part of the wire, as a resistance wire. I'm not sure at which point they installed it, but since it feeds the coil, it could be the pos. or neg. side. I remember many years ago swapping my distributor over with a Pertronix kit to eliminate the points, and having to replace the wire to get full battery voltage. Just been so long ago I don't remember which. Pulling the wire from either side, and reading with an ohm meter will tell you which side has more resistance. Normally a good wire will have no resistance at all, and I think the resistor wire will be around 1.6 to 2. ohms.

 

The positive coil wire (power) is the resistance wire. He doesn't need to check ohms, he can check volts going into the coil. With the resistance wire, there is between 9-10 volts feeding the coil.

 

And there ya go! The diagrams were more to help with the "hacked wiring" love the rats nest cars.

 

Me too! I'd rather completely rewire a car with new harness and fuse block, than mess with some of the nightmares previous owners make! Then add to that the firewall bulkhead connectors that have started to go bad on many of our old cars! I've chased issues numerous times and finally realized the bulkhead connector was the culprit. Might be part of the problem here on Sudstoy's Camaro. Even the resistance wire can have even greater voltage loss if the connection through the bulkhead connector is failing.

 

Thanks for the help guys, unfortunately im back in Germany onroute to work for a few weeks. I told my buddy to run the relay to make life simple. I also asked him to drive it down the street to another shop to get an alignment done on it before i get home. I really just want to get it streetable for this year. I will worry about other items like interior peices after i get seat time in it.

 

Ok guys it's 3:41am and I can't sleep at all. I spent today, well technically yesterday tweaking the car. I once again put new plugs in it, ngk this time and fixed a fuel leak. The car runs way better now. I even got a chance to go out and do some pulls against my buddies SHO mustang. He just dynoed at 280whp on the same dyno I goto tomorrow. To put that in perspective my 350 dynoed at 220ish on this dyno and I ran a 13.9. I am happy to report that it wasn't much of a race. Laying two thick dark patches all the way through first I had him by several lengths by second gear. Pretty excited. My appointment is in 5 hours from now but there is no way I can sleep.

I will try to grab some decent video tomorrow and post it on here. It will make the entire build worth while if I can lay down 500+ WHP.

If all goes well tomorrow I still have a ton to do.
Lay dynamat and carpet
Mount console
Mount new kick panels
Figure out 4 point shoulder belts
Figure out why my stereo doesn't work
Figure out why I have no dash lights
Install new headliner
Install new sail panels

Oh yeah, I have already burned through two full tanks of premium and I bet I haven't put on 50 miles yet. I am hoping the dyno can help with that or I am going to end up spending several thousand more on a fuel injection setup. This is something I don't want to do, I wanna keep this build old school.

Well gonna try to grab 4 hours of sleep so I wake up for the dyno. Wish me luck!

 

Good luck! Hope all goes well on the dyno! I wouldn't expect huge gains in fuel economy though, as a BBC just gobbles fuel, and the bigger they are, the more they gobble! That's my only real complaint with my 464 BBC in the Falcon; it just drinks way too much gas! I'm probably getting 5 mpg if I stay out of the throttle, and a little less if I play.

 

I'm here at the dyno now. Baseline numbers are a bit low, 423whp. I am hoping we can get it up to 450 by the end of the day. A stock zr1 vette dynos on this one at 475hp. I forgot my good camera so iphone video is all I have. We have only made two passes and are working on the carb now.

 

That sounds about 150-200 hp lower than I'd expect? Aren't those engines rated about 725 hp at the crank?

 

C.P. claims 620 hp at the crank. There's no set rule as to how much parasitic drivetrain loss you may have, it could be 18-20-even 25% or more lost at the wheels. Are you running a solid mounted mechanical cooling fan? That can cost you upward of 20 hp at higher rpm's.