That separate valve is a pressure regulator for the rear brakes. 1st gens and (the bastid child) 1970 models had it, but I think the hydraulic system may have changed in 71.
Also, check to see how your brake lines are currently run to make sure you reattach things correctly. Generally, the front reservoir in the master cylinder work the rear brakes, and the rear reservoir work the front brakes (different from what you said).

 

If your plan is to run an aftermarket proportioning valve, then you don't need any of that stuff. Just need to install the proportioning vaalve in the line going to the rear if you are still going to run drum brakes in the back.
If you're headed to 4 wheel disc brakes, then you'll still not use all that stuff, but you need to talk to your supplier about what prop valve, and where they reccommend installing it.
Edit: I see you are running 4 wheel discs, so dump all those items and just use the front/rear lines, plus the new prop valve.

 

Really? I don't need any of that stuff? That separate block really looks like it was hooked to the front brakes. Unless there are some convoluted paths inside if that distribution block.

 

Well I just went through all 5 camaro rebuild books I have and I don't see that separate block in any of them. They call that large block a combination block. Also in the pictures it doesnt show that fork shaped block mounted on the combination block. I'm starting to think that your right Val in saying both blocks are going to be removed. I do have a new master and new proportioning valve.

 

That separate block wasn't a "standard" item. It was used in big block cars, or ones equipped with A/C. I believe the reasoning was to compensate for the extra front end weight of those models. It also was used if the car came with a 12 bolt rearend.

 

The separate block can be replaced with a T to connect the two front wheel lines together. Once the two front wheels are connected to the rear of the new master, then the rear line and prop valve is all you need to the back. Adjusting the prop valve is just test drive and tweak. I mounted mine under the car where it's out of sight, so if I have my hood open nobody could reach in and mess with it. Once it's set there's no reason to ever adjust it again.

 

Ok well i dug out the 1970 assembly manual for the car, it doesnt have any descriptions or anything but all of those components are factory. I should be able to run straight out of my master, into my proportioning valve then straight to my brakes (with a line lock between the front chamber of my master and the prop valve.

Im glad i have finally found out what exactly i need to do now.

Unfortunately im done working on the car for over a month now. Hopefully my enthusiasm will be just as high next time i get home from work!

Thanks for the help guys

 

My late AC car didn't have it. Like Val said I would ditch the mess and get a spimple adjustable unit. Your probably going to need it anyhow. The line pressure to the rear will be higher than the new discs will like. This can cause premature rear lock up and what I like to call the Oh Chit! spin if you hit the brakes too hard.

The summit one looks like a stock pro valve except the adjusting ****. I have considered picking this one because maybe my stainless prebent lines I got a few years ago might just hook right up.

 

Maybe just a misquote but I believe that the line lock valve and solenoid will be in your front brake line and the prop valve in the rear line?

 

Yes, the front chamber usually feeds the rear on a stock setup, and the line loc would be in the front lines. But if you're installing a new aftermarket master, then you can plumb the master to whatever works for your sytem. I have mine on my OT gasser plumbed with the front of the master hooked to the front brakes, and the rear to the prop valve and rear brakes.