I've seen alot of pictures of fingers that were all black and blue after spending countless hours polishing things up. It doesn't look fun. I'm thinking of a more mechanical method. I'll look into getting a buffing wheel for my bench grinder. Right now it has one broken abrasive wheel, and another good wheel on it. I'd really prefer it to have a buffing wheel and a wire wheel, or get another one, use one for wire wheel and the other for buffing stuff.

Got me a new toy in the mail today, a Chrome radiator support cover to go along with my chrome fan shroud. Got a Flex Fan coming soon too.

 

If you can afford it get one with 8" wheels and the highest HP you can find. It won't bog down as easy.

 

trying to work out whether or not that engine is going to be alright the way it is with those odd holes welded up. I am inclined to think it is fine, it was magged and passed so I would imagine it should be. But they probably would not have been looking for that sort of thing so who knows...

I guess the block has a Cast Scat crank in it, 4340 Scat rods, 10:1 (he thinks) pistons with 64cc head chamber, and a Lunati Voodoo cam (not sure on specs at the moment though). $500 for everything, or $350 for everything but the block if it is determined to be bad. All the internals have ZERO miles on them. New everything, bearings, balanced, caps in the block, machine work done. Tough decision.

 

I wouldn't worry about those little plug welds. They shouldn't hurt anything. Only thing I would do is grind the weld to remove the tiny pieces around it that look like they might come loose.

 

I'm getting it later today.

4 bolt main Standard Bore
ARP Main Studs
Scat Cast Steel Crank
Scat 4340 I-beam Rods
Lunati voodoo 60103 (Duration 268/276, Lift .489/.504)
Lunati Hydraulic Lifters
Speed Pro Power Forged Pistons

All new bearings and plugs, zero miles. I'll post up pics later today.

 

Basicly the same as my motor Steve. I have the same crank and rods. I also have the next one up Voodoo cam except its a roller. Very tough setup deff. worth 500 in my book. The welds Kind of look the a cam correct was installed, then removed. But I can't be certain. Cam corrects are basically a slider that the chain rides on to take up slack created by line boring.

 

Got me a new engine today. I'm hoping it is a good one, I will probably run it by a machine shop just to be sure, but it does have some good stuff in it, so either way it was worth it to me.



















010 block, not sure what the 38GM means, need to look that one up, along with the numbers on the front pad.

SCAT Cast Crankshaft 910442

SCAT 4340 Connecting Rods 35700P

Speed Pro ZL2256F Power Forged Pistons

ARP Main Studs

Lunati Voodoo 60103 Camshaft

Lunati 71817 Micro-Trol Hydraulic Lifters

Block was supposed to have been dipped and magnafluxed, and power bored, not sure what else. I've got a BBC oil pump coming, I need to get a SBC driveshaft for it so I can use it. I'm also going to need to find me a set of heads here soon. Something along the lines of 64cc should get 10:1 Compression Ratio if I have read things correctly. I'm interested in aluminum, 2.02 or bigger valves I think. I've got that Holley Street Dominator intake, and a 600 Holley, although I think a 750 would not be out of line. And I need a billet timing cover, and I'd like a oil pan with wings that holds more oil.

 

How does your motor run? What heads do you have, I need to decide on that one. He was also selling a set of Vortecs that have been reworked for the bigger springs and cut to handle this lift on the cam. The only thing, is that they are still the small valves. I think I would be better off even getting some of those $600 ones off of Ebay with the big valves.

 

My engine is still not running. I have to adjust the valves, stab the dizzy, and plumb my fuel system. I may just cobble up something to fire it up. I'll post a video for sure. Is that the motor with the welds. The reason I ask is because its a studded block so it probably has been line honed. Again with the cam correct theory.

Anyway that is a damn fine motor. I'd go with an air gap and a 750. BTW I have Canfield 195CC heads. They have 2.05 Ferrea valves, guide plates,Crane Gold Rollers, titanium retainers, and have been angle milled to 59cc to roll the valve angle for better flow. There the only thing I have left from the drag car.

 

It is the motor with the welds, by studded you mean the main studs? I think he said it was align honed. From what I have read that is totally not necessary. Not sure tho. I figure I'll save up about $700 and then start looking for a set of heads. I got a line on a rebuilt Holley 750 I hope to get in a couple weeks. Should come together nice with some good stuff in it for a good start.