Too late! I know it's going to be extreme but I think it'll be awesome. I'm all about the low idle and when it opens up it will tear! We'll try it out and see anyways. I'm not overly concerned, if it really isnt working out I will swap it out for another and sell it for probably more then what I paid for (prices arn't cheap here). All in allI think I will love how extreme it is.

 

[QUOTE=Axle;503225]Too late! I know it's going to be extreme but I think it'll be awesome. I'm all about the low idle and when it opens up it will tear!QUOTE]

If you're "all about the low idle" you've really missed the boat! That cam will never idle at anything close to low. Hope you've got a stick, or a huge stall torque converter, as that cam wont even begin to make power low enough to use on the street. I think you better turn it around as soon as it arrives and get the original cam you mentioned in your parts post.
Anything even close to 300 degrees duration is not a street cam. You do realise you've only got 360 degrees in a circle, and that cam will only be closed for an instant at each rotation of the cam? It's way too much cam for the rest of the parts you're using too.

 

Heres my engine. Hers my cam. http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1989&gid=289 . Its not an apples to apples comparison but my engine is well built and can handle the cam you bought. Yours is bigger than mine so to speak. Why you ask? Because I want my engine to idle at 750-800 rpm. I want enough vacuum to use power brakes. I don't wanna drive with my foot to the floor just so it runs good. My cam will make a chit load more low end torque and thats what pushes you back in the seat.

I don't wanna sound like my word is final and I'm always right. I just want to help you build a strong good run SBC. So back to your cam. Your stock bottom end won't like spinning up to 6400 to make that thing work. Add to that its kind of set up backward for your stock heads. The cam has more intake lift than exhaust. Your stock heads need more lift on the exhaust side. Niether of which flow well at 500 lift (right where your cam is). 313* advertised duration HOLY COW. Like Vall said 360-313= 47* thats it, your exhaust valve will be closed for 47* of rotation. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=109&sb=2 Heres the Comp link so you can see what goes along with that cam. You bought springs but for what cam?

Just tryin to save you the headache of living with a cam thats too big. It won't wanna idle below a grand I bet. Just somewhere I've been. The only other advise I can offer is whatever cam you do run, make sure you use a break in oil or Rotella diesel oil for breaking the cam in. Newer oils don't have zinc and other stuff in it that the older oils did. The cam will go most likely wipe out a lobe if you don't. Also if you have a set of ceramic coated headers don't break the cam in with those on. It voids the warranty and will make the ceramic chip off at the top.

 

OK so you recommend I get this one?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-600-4/

its Duration 279/297, Lift .479/.465 (yes the one you sent a link to)

It does sound better to me also. I will call summit and see if I can switch out to this cam instead (same price) before they get sending me the other one. Does anyone know of a way to do this on summit or do I have to call them? Thanks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-981-16/ These are the springs. comp cams recomended this cam and spring to go together.

I called Summit, they had no problem changing my order, this cam kit and springs are now what I am getting. I hope this works out better!!!! Thanks ALOT for the support guys. I will admit I changed my cam and ordered my parts to quickly last night!

 

Glad to help. Summit has some of the best customer support.

 

Glad you were able to change it before it shipped! Normally Summit throws the orders on a trailer so fast that I've never been able to change or stop an order if I waited more than a couple hours.

 

Here are some casting numbers off my heads. Remember I took this motor out of a 78 gmc one ton truck.

gm32 dna k c05 7 354434

gm4t b2378 376450

I may have some extra numbers and letters in there. So far I only found out info on the "354434" The thing is everywhere it says this is a 305 head. The motor it came off is 4 bolt main. I took my rods and pistons out today, so next time at the shop I will have to measure the bore. As you likely know there is basically no factory 305 4 bolt main.

This is weird!
$600 gets them to be a 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust

Summit parts are here thursday!

 

Not that a head can't be changed, or that a smog motor wont be equipped with a small head even if it's a 4 bolt main block. I'd pull them and have the valve size checked. Easy for a machine shop to change valves seats to 2.02/1.60" valves and seats to make them breathe good.

 

I was just wondering about you. You'll have to post a vid of your motor idling for me.

 

I'll post lots of videos when it's together! If the heads in fact are 305 heads I dont think i'll have much use for them. I will get new heads that are already closed chamber 2.02 1.60. likely world products sportsman 2 heads. I'll measure the bore next time i'm in the shop to make sure it is infact a 350, better yet i'll check it's casting number