I plan on using it all as is, I just ment should I measure the stuff to see if it's all been done right before I put it in? Cause that would suck to get it all in and find out that it's wrong, I will have to cut a round or triangle out for the drive shaft clearance but other then that the 4 link set up should be good to go.

As for installing the 4 link set-up once I get the floor and tubs cut out all I should really have to do is make sure I get it square and at the right angle correct?

The only part that I won't use is the carrier that's in the housing since it's not the right spline count but I thought I'd check some salvage yards for a 31 spline 3rd member, Bad idea? Good idea?
I haven't seen a rear end or 3rd member on my craigslist in a long time (I'm hoping that will be to my benifit selling my 3.73) and the only swap meet I've heard of around here (two hours away) was a couple weeks ago which I was working at the time so I couldn't go.
It sucks here cause in oklahoma I could go to a handful of swap meets, car shows, flea market/dog trades and good garage sells every week but here there is nothing like that.

 

Might be tough finding a 31 spline. You can pick up a spool pretty cheap for a 9". It will suck on the street though. The one I had was out of a truck and it was only 28. The good news is there isn't much you can't through at a 31 spline Moser. I had them in the Nova and actually snapped the spool in half before the axles broke. Almost killed myself too! Lesson learned. Don't by a circle track spool because there cheaper. There also weaker.

 

The first thing you need when doing fab work on a chassis is a clean flat floor. All measurements will be taken off the floor, so if it's not level everything you do will be out. Squaring up the subframe is essential, and checking what you have to ensure it's square is a must.
The 4 link is adjustable, so unless it was way out of square (beyond adjustment) it can be tweaked to fit. Don't cut anything out or modify it without having it all braced first! You need to tack weld a support across the frame prior to cutting and welding in a hoop for driveshaft clearance. I personally wouldn't cut for the driveline until it's in the car and you see how much clearance it needs.
If you measure diagonally across the frame from corner to corner at the same spots, you can see if it's close. No sense in measuring from the axle, as I said the 4 link can be adjusted, so no good there. You can also measure the drop with the frame on a flat surface to ensure it's equal, and also the length of all the pieces, just to see if they built it right. You wont be able to get exact measurements with the weld joints, but it will tell you if it's way off.
At some point I think you'll have to end up with a full frame by attaching your subframe to the new rear subframe, making it all one frame. In order to do that you'll need to measure your present wheelbase and then weld frame connectors from the subframe to the new rear subframe. Once it's all welded together at the correct angle and true, then you can set the body on and line up the front subframe bolts. With it trial fitted you can figure out what mounting points and clearance needs to be made to attach it to the body in the rear.
You'll most likely have to cut the entire floor/frame out in the width and length of the new donor frame, then when the body drops on you can see if that's enough, or if it also needs more trimming for the frame connectors to also clear. It's going to be a major task, and you'll need some help and a decent hoist from the ceiling to allow you to lift the whole body on and off the completed frame.

 

Well my thought process was to incorporate the new frame with the part of the old frame rails if possible and use sub frame connectors to make it all one But that was just off the top of my head thinking and it will take alot of measuring and preping.

I like your idea Vall of making the frames one off the car since that will be so much easier then under the car and since I'm pretty much making all new connections on the back end of the car for the new frame it should be easier to do it like you say.

When you say squaring up the sub frame what do you mean though just like how the ends are rounded by where the body mounts are and I need to make those nice and boxy or the entire measurements of it?

Sorry for my stupid questions I know I probably sound in over my head cause I literally have never done something like this before but I can do it, I know I can. I'm just gonna take my time, learn everything up and do it right. hopefully lol. No doubt it will be one heck of a learning experience.

Damon when you say it may be tough finding a 31 spline do you mean finding a used one out of a factory vehicle because it's uncommon or just not used by OEM? or just in general cause they're desirable?

Thanks for all the help everyone has given me throughout these projects.

 

When I spoke of "squaring it up" I meant to measure diagonally from point A to point B, and then check that against the other corners diagonally. The only way to know if the current subframe is trued up is to do this type of measurement. Just pick a spot on one corner, and the diagonally opposite corner, then do the same on the other corners. If they're way off then it wasn't built square, and needs to be ditched, or fixed.
When you connect the tow subframes together both subframes need to be leveled and then numerous measurements taken from hub center to center, and again diagonally before welding. Once both subframes are situated pefectly, then the connecting rails can be cut to fit, and tacked in place. After that you redo all the measurements again several times as you continue to tack weld. Once it's all welded solid, then it needs to be plated at the joints if the box tubing used doesn't slide inside of the two frames, as it wont be strong enough by butt welding.
I know you're a novice to this, but we all are at some point, so don't feel alone. If you take time and ask lots of questions you can do it. Just wish I was closer, because I love doing fab work more than just bolting things on. You get to really be creative and do things the way you want to see them done. Wish I'd taken the leap years ago and tubbed my Camaro before I got so far into rebuilding it.

 

So when making those measurement's from hub center to center it would probably be best to have the sub frame mounted and the rear end still in huh? I have the spring pockets, rear end, and springs already out and the sub frame off.

I can put the subframe in and try out the new solid body bushings I got and get everything measured up that way and measure from the front wheel hub to the center of the rear wheel housing would that be close enough or is that a bad idea cause close enough isn't good enough?

 

Well I put the sub frame back on and measured from the center of the front hub to where I guessed the center of the wheel house was, I came up with 109 inchs just checked nastyz28 and they list the wheel base which I presume means center to center on the hubs as 108 inchs so I didn't do bad for eye balling it.
I measured my subframe before I put it back on seems square, I'm gonna put the trans mount back on and bolt it tight before I pull the sub frame again figure that should give it some more structural rigidity.

I got some 3x2x.120 steel today so over the weekend I'm hoping to get my measuring done and maybe put it together but only if I can get everything ready.
Also figured out that the set of solid body bushings I bought wasn't a complete set like I thought, it's only the fire wall and core support so I have to get the rear sub frame bushings.

 

This will help you. http://nastyz28.com/tech/framechk.jpg I tried to post it here but its too big. There are also 5/8 holes on the middle two mounts that help line it up with dowels.

 

Pretty close, or close enough wont get it. You need to be dead nuts on, and I'm talking within 1/8" or less if you can. I wouldn't do this work with the subframe installed. Since you know the wheelbase of a Camaro, you only need to keep that in mind when setting up the frames. Start by being certain the front wheels are centered turn to turn, so they wont give you an incorrect reading if they were cocked to one way or the other. Then get the rear donor frame aligned behind the subframe, and make certain both frames are level and secured. Adjust the rear frame until the center of the front hubs to center of the rear axle are the match to the stock wheelbase. Being certain that everything is squared up, and then measure the tubing material needed to make the frame fit.
I would use box tubing that slides inside the front subframe. I know it's available becasue I built my own subframe connectors with tubing I got from the metal yard that slid in perfectly. If you slide it inside until it stops just after the last frame mounting point, then it can be marked and cut out so that when the frame is mounted it actually mounts over both the connector frame, and the subframe, making it even stronger. Then it can be welded together at the rear, and I'd also cut some holes in the sides to spot weld it in several places too.
It's going to be critical that you have the 4 link set up properly before you even begin to fabricate the rest the frame welding. If the adjustments are not centered and true to start, you may not have enough adjustment to correct things after it's welded. You'll need to get the pinion angle set with a angle finder on the front of the 9" housing, and then adj. the 4 link by finding out where center is on each heim joint, and then setting the angle close without ending up with the heims being out of adjustment threads. That's done by finding the center of the threads, then for every turn in one direction on an upper, you go the same number opposite on the lower until the angle is correct.
After that you check wheelbase length again, and readjust if needed. Once it's all set, THEN you can proceed with tack welding things. Don't put any real welds on until the body has been situated on the frame and everything trimmed so the front subframe can bolt in. Once it's in and it all clears, then you can make final adjustments, and recheck angles, etc. before pulling the body back off and welding the frame.
I can't stress enough how important it is to take your time and check measurements a dozen times or more before getting too much welded! You sure don't want to end up with a chopped up Camaro, and a frame that wont work with it.

 

I agree. Measure five times cut once. Use only tacks that can be cut off if something isn't right. I'm a little **** but I won't use a tape measure if the tab on the end is loose. I have seen them with 1/8" of slop. Not good when you want something square.

I also would go at this far different than Val. I'm not sayin he's wrong, just there are more ways to skin a cat. I won't go into my ideas because I don't want to fill your head with more stuff. I'll just say I would have the front in the car and square. Its better to have a concise plan.