The cage will help stiffen the car up, I strongly suggest door bars. They hepl tie the front to the back, plus if you ever get big power you'll be a step ahead.

 

Yes, and door bars don't have to be too high up. I've seen them done where they are about 12" high at the main hoop, but angle down to around 6" at the front hoop, so easy to get into the car. I've also seen them with swing out bars to allow easy entry.

 

The rule is the the bar must fall between the drivers shoulder and elbow. Swing out bars help. I have a plan for mine, the seat belt bar can't be in there if my kids are riding in back. If I were in an accident it would be the first thing they hit, scarey. Weld this guy in there and the tech guy will never see it when covered in roll bar padding.

I know your not building a race car. Just showing what I would do.

 

A rollbar isn't required unless you go faster than 11.49 in the 1/4. So if you aren't building a massive engine that will go that fast, then you don't need to worry if the rollbar passes tech or not. Even if it does go 11.49 it only needs a simple 5 point, and not a full cage until it gets under 10 sec. times.
I never got fast enough to worry about it, and my 4 pt. was just for my own peace of mind.

 

Well on the cage subject, since I'm going for an autocross/ touring type of build which would be more ideal? a large cage to better stiffen up the car or a simple 4 point for lighter weight?
And man idk how long it's been since I've posted seems like months, it's midterm at college so it's been study, test, and repeat.
I've gotten the frame basically ready to weld up, I've measured repeatedly and got the connectors cut and mounted.
I modified the end of the 2x3 going into the sub frame by cutting out what I needed too from the the bottom face to let it slip in nice and easy and give me access to install the bushings when the time comes, I slipped em in and made my marks for where to cut a hole for the bushing so when installed they will sandwitch the sub and connector frames together, then I leveled and streightened them and tightened the bushing down to hold em in place for tac welds. Once I had them tac'd in I got the cut off saw and lopped off the other ends so now everything is to spec ready to be welded up, I get thursday off so I'm gonna get to re-measure everything and start welding it all together then.

 

I would go with an 8 point to tie the front to back.

 

So how's the frame work going? Are you making any progress, or on a break?

 

Frame is done for the moment, wheel base is off by 3/16 of an inch on one side kinda pissed about that but it's close enough so I'm gonna try it like that.

Sorry for the lack of post, my pc took a crap on me and I didn't bother doing anything till I met a guy at school who could make it work again.

I haven't done anything to the camaro lately I'm gonna try and set the body on the frame and get stuff cut out I need to make some progress soon.

I bought my girl a 1989 240sx a week or two ago, drunk driver hit a pole so I have been fixing that. Only needs a radiator right now but for $400 I thought it was a steal and she if paying for half so i'm not completely out of pocket, enki rims, $300 worth of tires with only 6,000 miles on em, no engine mods, clean body except for the hood and bumper but no rust.
I really don't know if the engine/tranny are good or bad yet since the rad is bad I never run it for long but the tranny lacks power to move forward unless I rev it up so I'm gonna try a new filter and fluid change might just need to be warmed up too.
Rad/frame support wasn't really hit so hopefully the alignment isn't off to bad the bumper got wrapped up pretty good but I bent it back and welded it on and the bumper cover on that, looks like crap but It'll work till spring or summer when I can do more to it.

As for the camaro I'm planning on using my taxes to buy stuff for it so I'm just gonna spend my time working on the body, as for engine and drive train I'm still planning on ls with 5 or 6 speed behind it. I'm thinking a rear mount turbo set up will be alot easier then fabbing turbo headers and trying to cram everything under the hood plus if I do rear mount I'm only gonna do a single turbo where if I did a under hood set up I'd want a twin set up so I can save some money and make things happen without waiting so long for funds to compile.

I've seen a couple of these set ups and I know that if you do em right there isn't any issue with turbo lag and they can still put up the numbers so my biggest challenge I think is gonna be lubing the turbo, most of the threads I've read go with a stand alone oil circuit just for the turbo yet some propose plumbing oil lines from the engine I still need to do more research I think both probably have their own advantages and drawbacks.
But for the moment thats the plan lol obviously I will probably change it ten times from now but for the moment I'm liking the rear mount set up for ease of install cause I think I'll have my hands full enough under the hood with whatever engine I come up with.

 

My teacher had a great metaphor today for exhaust gas recirculation and it's adverse affects on engines and shortening their life rating " Imagine a pipe from your a$s to your mouth, how long would you last?"

 

The past week I've gotten the frame all blasted and painted, it's in three diferent colors cause I just used what I had, got some of the floor cut out gonna start with this then once I get the body set on I'll cut to fit but here are some pics.








I worked on the car a bit more tonight and cut a little more out of the tunnel, rear pan area and trunk area. should hopefully get the body on over the weekend.