nope. all they said was use the zink break in lube... no amount of mins or anything specified. i will just check it some time. soon after a few drives. ima change my oil too because i just need to lol it fired right up once i got the timeing mark up right. just had to find it. now do u run your vac advance off manifold or carb/smog.

also to tune a vac canister you put an alen key into the front and how many turns out gives u that amount of vac advance at a # of manifold vac pressure.

 

Wow, thanks! My car came from Ca. and had a vacuum canister when it was new, but it didn't have any adjustment screw on it. It's been sitting on the shelf in the storage shed for the last 36 yrs.

 

ooo.. dont tune old ones. its just adjustable ones u can get. my street fire msd comes with a adjustable one. you can buy them i think and reinstall them on older dizzys though and tune in how much u want.
.

 

1971BB427, brownstone is referring to the adjustable vacuum advance can on the distributor. Are you thinking charcoal canister perhaps?
And believe it or else, MSD recommends using Moly lube and supplies it for breaking in the distributor gear. But the break in period wouldn't be very long since the oil would wash it in a short time. They also recommend not using synthetic oil for the break in too. Seems crazy, but maybe the concern is about compatibilities with different manufacturers cam gears?

 

used normal 10W40 its an old 305 so i wouldn't use synthetic and used whole tube of comp cam break in lube for lifters and cam it came with it so im sure its fine.

 

Geez! Now I really feel old and dumb! When he was saying "canister" I thought he meant the charcoal canister. Never heard the vacuum advance referred to as a "canister". I've seen adjustable vacuum advances on various distributors, but couldn't picture that plastic charcoal canister with an adjustment.
Now it's all very clear! Thanks Camaro69!

 

lol...All I could picture was you scratching your head thinking "what in the hell is an adjustable charcoal canister". Now I want one!!!

 

sorry if there was some confusion there. i tossed my charcoal canister out its in the parts pile. mine wasn't hooked up and i don't care/ need it for smog. it helped alot having that dizzy hooked into main manifold vacuum instead of smog ported vacuum. brought my vacuum gauge from the late timing mark to normal.

now i think its tuning my carb/dizzy in some to fix this bog. if you snap the carb open it just bogs out then goes so it could be a lean zone or its to rich. im going to tare my carb apart with a rebuild kit and see what needles im running of it there somewhat dirty or clogged up. it feels smoother with ignition though and there gaped at .040 gonna open the gap up to .050 i think stock HEI is .045 but since it has a hotter coil being its msd im going to squeak a little gap out of it for a hotter burn. now i think its the carbs time to get fixed.

 

Modern distributors are designed with smogged engines in mind and need to be hooked up to ported vacuum on the carb. Having your vacuum advance hooked up to manifold vacuum advances the timing at idle. You're getting a bog because as soon as you crack the throttle blades open, manifold vacuum drops and so does your vacuum advance. And timing won't advance back until the engine gets to the rpm's where the centrifugal weights kick in. So now you have a "dead spot" where timing advance is dropped between idle and 3k-ish rpm's. To make the dizzy's vacuum advance work with manifold vacuum, you need to mess with the vacuum can adjustments and limit the vacuum advances amount of travel. Or you could just hook it up to ported vacuum and see what you get.

 

You may also need to check the accelerator pump on your Holley. If the diaphram is bad, or too small to give a good shot, this also could cause the bog when you hit the throttle. A good accelerator pump will overcome some issues. You've most likely got the stock 30cc and should maybe move up to the big 50cc pump.
Holley sells kits to tune the pump, if the distributor doesn't solve the problem.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-20-11/