so i found 2 sights that kinda got me confused with an accelerator pump. one says this.

The pump lever should not bottom out in the accelerator pump housing, but should feature at least 0.015-inches of extra travel. Don't be tempted to tighten the accelerator pump screw at the pump lever spring in anticipation of increasing pump travel and volume. This spring is pre-set and, in almost all applications, it should not be touched

i just did that to get the rest of my travel so it should be correct. they just say not to do that so it has clearance and doesn't come on the right way. i think?

i read everywhere and set mine to that last night. i have full use of my pump diaphragm now with 0 clearance and i can depress the arm a little more at WOT and have about.015 .020 " before its bottomed out. is that correct?

the way it was before is it just bottom out then it would depress the spring which was very light being it was so lose and it pressed down the rest of the way. so i think i adjusted it right. now if theres a bog or it kinda acts slow adjust it with the cams and squirter's

 

Sounds like it's correct now. The spring is just there in case, and you sure don't want to be compressing it, as that means the pump is being driven to it's limit all the time when you go WOT.

 

o its sweet now! the carb still needs rebuilt but damn its nice!. haven't got a chance to take it on the road so i will when i can but theres no bog. it snaps up in rpms instantly it feels great now. now ima see about talking my dad into letin me borrow his hood for 2~3 weeks so i can take it to some places to get stuff done on it. while im workin on finding a dry day to paint my hood. when u got nice HEI dizzy and all the electrical and everything under the hood. u dont want it getin soaked drivein some place in Oregon

 

its geting close! took it to town today on ported and left on manifold but i kinda had a surging and a ticking noise and gained a ton of power low end but at cruse was like it was over advanced. i checked my vac advance and i was 1 1/2 turns out from bottomed. so i moved it out to 5 turns and now has a slight bog but less vacuum timing so i should start working it in till it comes on smooth but wont knock? correct? is there a way of tuneing a vaccume advance canister or is it hit or miss?

 

If it didn't come with instructions I'd recommend going to their web site and downloading the instructions. Then set it according to what they say.

 

epic vacuum table thats about it. i learned that turns out= more vac and turns in= less vac. i also think the engine surgeing and poping and sluggish **** feeling and i got some starter fluid... shhhh be very quiet.. im hunting vacuum. lol. i think ive had some vac leak since i got the car. its kinda hesitating at red light and all that so im sure ill find some leaks to fix



my bets on those 2 screws on that intake. on that plate with the 2 big hex screws for the add on vacuum stuff. they drilled 2 holes in that and ive had a screw vibrate out or backfire out and bamn huge open vacuum into intake

 

That sort of surprises me, as most manifolds don't have holes in that area that go clear through to the intake runners. That plate is for the heat riser to the choke on a factory Q jet, and it's just a heat riser and shouldn't (normally) be drilled and tapped clear through.

 

so problem found .. i think. i ran a T elbow to my break booster and PVC valve. so basicly ran with an open PVC valve. someone recommended i do this but it had huge vacumme leak from it. ran straight to break booster and the RPMS went way down gave it more screw and idled more happy. other friend said now hook up PVC valve to air cleaner dish so im pullin fumes and not causing problems with vacuum. also i have a breather on the other side so i shouldn't be worried about pressure building up cause there both operating good ran so much smoother now too. alot louder!



look in top left corner at PVC valve see what i did. the brass piece is a T elbow going to break booster. i guess i messed that up.

 

That block-off plate on the intake manifold is covering up where an EGR valve would otherwise go. Yes, there's vacuum in there.

 

checked those i membered i gooped them up with gasket maker and used them as plugs till i find another ERG plate. found the vac leak is the way the PCV valve was hooked up and i think it runs a ton better now. might even go for a drive in a few but its dark and crappy atm