torque converter holes dont line up..ugh!
#21
Wow! 6 holes and they're all the same pattern? That's bizarre. I wouldn't pull the engine out; I'd put a jack under the tranny and pull it back just enpough to get at the flywheel bolts. Then unbolt it and replace it with one that matches your torque converter. Flex plates are way cheaper than torque converters.
Last edited by jason7504; 04-23-2011 at 07:13 PM.
#22
If you pull the crossmember out, then it should pull back enough for even a socket. Be sure to support the engine oil pan before taking the trans loose, so it wont drop down and break anything. Dump those 12 pt bolts once you take them out and get 6 pt.
#23
I just got those 12 point bolts before I put the engine in lol there ARP
#24
You maybe could leave the speedo in, it would be nice if you could just unbolt the crossmember from the frame, and it would help support it along with a jack to slide it back. Obviously the driveshaft would have to come out. Well, unhooked from your rear end and the yoke left in so fluid doesn't leak all over you. The other stuff is correct. Bellhousing bolts, crossmember etc. Maybe too your cooling lines.
#26
Not enough room to put much longer bolts into the block, as it's too close to the firewall.
You'll need a floor jack or transmission jack. I use a floor jack and I bolt a piece of 3/4" plywood around 12"-14" sq. to the lift plate after remvoing the swivel plate.
Then jack it up to just putting tension on the trans pan, then turn it so the handle is pointing at the rearend. Now you unbolt the bellhousing bolts and the crossmember and get it out of the way. Speedo needs to go too.
Roll the jack back slowly until you have enough room to access the crank bolts. If you want to reuse the ARP bolts, that's fine; I just hate 12 pt. bolts personally.
I put a bar or 2x4 across the inner fenders on top and wrap a chain around that, then bolt each end of the chain to one head with 3/8 bolt. Then I use a piece of running thread between the chain to pull the chain together. Of course if you've got an engine hoist just hook it to the engine and hold the rear tensioned up.
You'll need a floor jack or transmission jack. I use a floor jack and I bolt a piece of 3/4" plywood around 12"-14" sq. to the lift plate after remvoing the swivel plate.
Then jack it up to just putting tension on the trans pan, then turn it so the handle is pointing at the rearend. Now you unbolt the bellhousing bolts and the crossmember and get it out of the way. Speedo needs to go too.
Roll the jack back slowly until you have enough room to access the crank bolts. If you want to reuse the ARP bolts, that's fine; I just hate 12 pt. bolts personally.
I put a bar or 2x4 across the inner fenders on top and wrap a chain around that, then bolt each end of the chain to one head with 3/8 bolt. Then I use a piece of running thread between the chain to pull the chain together. Of course if you've got an engine hoist just hook it to the engine and hold the rear tensioned up.
Last edited by 1971BB427; 04-24-2011 at 10:24 AM.
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