No Headlights
#11
It's down at the starter. Just looks like a heat shrunk covered piece of wiring. Not usually obvious if it's bad from the outside. Check for 12 v. at your headlight switch. If it's not there, then it's either the fusible link, or a break somewhere between starter and switch.
#12
Right on thank you. Unfortunately living in Canada eh I won't be able to try it till spring due to high volume of snow and not being able to access it in storage. You know how this happened, previous owner had put in a manual toggle switch to activate the induction flaps and said that if I hook power up to the switch the flaps should work. Well I did that and not only did the flaps not work, it fried the headlights. Damn eh. I did check the power wire to the switch and nothing. I changed the switches out anyway though cause they were cheap. Can't wait til spring! Thanks again !
#13
X2 on 1971BB427's comments, probably a fuseable link.
However, I find when tracing a problem and your test light is making you question, go about tracing the problem in reverse . I have a cheap little 12 volt SLA battery I use just for such things, and eliminate problems starting with the problem itself. (Assuming the test light has already made hair stand up on the back of your neck with no soloution), disconnect the car battery, wire up a pos/neg lead from your SLA battery and begin at the headlamps. Do they light up? Yes, then go down the lines to the high/low beam switch, disconnect it, plug in yoiur leads and see if they light up. If no, then you at least isolated your problem, and so on, and so on.
I quite often overthink small problems, and have to go back and try to keep it simple. This is one example.
That and I have a personal hate for test lights. I drove myself nuts here a year ago on a problem, only to discover my test light wasn't working. I'm not sure which neighbors yard it landed in.
However, I find when tracing a problem and your test light is making you question, go about tracing the problem in reverse . I have a cheap little 12 volt SLA battery I use just for such things, and eliminate problems starting with the problem itself. (Assuming the test light has already made hair stand up on the back of your neck with no soloution), disconnect the car battery, wire up a pos/neg lead from your SLA battery and begin at the headlamps. Do they light up? Yes, then go down the lines to the high/low beam switch, disconnect it, plug in yoiur leads and see if they light up. If no, then you at least isolated your problem, and so on, and so on.
I quite often overthink small problems, and have to go back and try to keep it simple. This is one example.
That and I have a personal hate for test lights. I drove myself nuts here a year ago on a problem, only to discover my test light wasn't working. I'm not sure which neighbors yard it landed in.
#15
I personally love test lights. (if they work!) I use a good Fluke 97 for a lot of work, but a test light is so much faster, and nice for quick troubleshooting. I keep a test light in the glove box of all three of my vehicles, just in case I have an emergency to check.
#17
You should ask the question in the 4th gen section. I doubt many guys in this section know options for your '95 headlights.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post