HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
#11
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
I believe that in Camaros up to 1970 the positive went to ajunction block on the radiator support. It is a smaller gauge wire than the battery positive which goes to the starter. From the junction block it is connected to the regulator and accessory feed. Check that wire and make certain the wire and the connections are good. If someone has hacked the wiring you might want to follow it all the way to the firewall, a small break in the insulation can lead to corrosion and eventual failure. One other thing is the firewall connector. By removing the bolt in the center you can unplug it and check the connections inside. I have seen these corrode and fail, you can tell by looking for green on any of the terminals. The main feed for the interior is a larger red wire, check it really good.
#14
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
Do you have access to a remote starter? You can bypass the fuseable link with one and see if you turn the starter over directly. That will start a trouble shooting process and can narrow some things down. More than likely it will turn over.
If your car is like mine you also have a switched 12v power junction right between the wiper fluid motor and the master cylinder. Those can get pretty corroded and need cleaning since they're exposed pretty good. I remember pulling mine and all my connectors were fused together from age, corrosion and grime. Took me about ten minutes to clean up and reconnect with new connectors and it helped.
If your car is like mine you also have a switched 12v power junction right between the wiper fluid motor and the master cylinder. Those can get pretty corroded and need cleaning since they're exposed pretty good. I remember pulling mine and all my connectors were fused together from age, corrosion and grime. Took me about ten minutes to clean up and reconnect with new connectors and it helped.
#15
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
Here is a question I noticed that the wiring is hacked up. Here is what I found the neg. batt cable runs to the alternator bracket and is grounded there then there is second wire coming off the neg batt post and should be grounded to the inside the fender but that wire is running right into the headlight plug. Then at the horn relay the ground for it looks like it is rusty and corroded. could these be the problem. The postive looks to be right. it runs to the junction block on the raditaor support. Thanks for the help
#17
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
The horn relay is (should be) mounted on the drivers side of the radiator core support. Trace your wires to make sure nothing is crossed.
Your battery should have two black wires coming from the - terminal. One fat cable going to the engine, and one 12 ga. black wire to the core support.
The + side of the battery should have a fat cable going directly to the starter, and a 14 ga. brown wire (with a fusible link) going to a junction block on the pass. side of the core support.
Then from the junction block, you should have a 14 ga. black wire that leads to the bulk-head plug, and a 10 ga. red wire that goes to the horn relay.
In addition to that red wire, there are 4 additional wires on the horn relay. A 20 ga. black, a 20 ga. pink/double black stripe, and a 16 ga. black, which all go to the bulk-head plug. There is also a dark green wire that goes to the horns.
If the condition of your horn relay looks questionable, either clean all the terminals thoroughly, or buy a new one (especially if your horns don't work).
Your battery should have two black wires coming from the - terminal. One fat cable going to the engine, and one 12 ga. black wire to the core support.
The + side of the battery should have a fat cable going directly to the starter, and a 14 ga. brown wire (with a fusible link) going to a junction block on the pass. side of the core support.
Then from the junction block, you should have a 14 ga. black wire that leads to the bulk-head plug, and a 10 ga. red wire that goes to the horn relay.
In addition to that red wire, there are 4 additional wires on the horn relay. A 20 ga. black, a 20 ga. pink/double black stripe, and a 16 ga. black, which all go to the bulk-head plug. There is also a dark green wire that goes to the horns.
If the condition of your horn relay looks questionable, either clean all the terminals thoroughly, or buy a new one (especially if your horns don't work).
#18
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
Get yourself a test light, start at the battery. Test from neg to pos, if light comes onyou have a charge in the battery. Now begin working your way away from the battery. Track down each positive wire and test them. Eventually you will find a wire that does not have power.
Along the wat if you find a questionable connection, clean/repair it and move on. Be very picky with each wire and connector, sometimes a wire will have power until a load is put on it. Feel the wires for bulges, this usually means a corroded spot inside the insulation. If you find this replace the wire. Take your time and fix each problem, there is nothing worse than a dead car on a weekend cruise.
Along the wat if you find a questionable connection, clean/repair it and move on. Be very picky with each wire and connector, sometimes a wire will have power until a load is put on it. Feel the wires for bulges, this usually means a corroded spot inside the insulation. If you find this replace the wire. Take your time and fix each problem, there is nothing worse than a dead car on a weekend cruise.
#20
RE: HELP!!!MAJOR SHUT DOWN!!!
hey i didnt read all of the posts so please forgive me if someone has said this already. but i had the same problem i couldnt for the life of me get car started and other times id just sit in and bam it start and for somereason just stop. it turned out the tumbler (where the key goes) the wires were loose. just a heads up. it maybe it. people used to laugh becasie id have to swivel the tilt steering to ge tthe wires to engage for the car to start at times. hope this helps
kamal
kamal
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