Hi everyone,
I'm stumped as a few weeks ago, everything power wise seemed to be working fine - was able to start, had power inside, etc. One thing that happened though last time we started it was a fuel leak at the pump. So,we went to get a new pump. Then this past weekend took off the old pump, and went to put on the new one only to discover that it wouldn't go on as easy as thought- my guess because the piston that hits the actuator is slightly at the out position.
So we went to turn the engine over, but nothing. My assumption was a dead battery. I put it on the charger a couple days later when we'd have time to work on it, and then tried the engine again. Still no power in the car at all. Maybe a bad battery I thought. Checked it with a meter and it was at 13 volts. Checked ground and it's good. Checked positive to the alternator and it's hooked up and not chewed through (we have rats). Checked all the fuses under the dash and they're fine.
Any ideas?
I did read somewhere about a fusable wire near the firewall or on the small red wire coming off the battery, and that it could be popped.

We really need to get this on the road ASAP. Thanks for any help!

Greg

 

Check the start wire on the starter with the key in the start position, and see what voltage, if any, you have.
For the fuel pump, you can hold the push rod in the up position with a thin screwdriver, and do a quick switcharoo pulling the screwdriver out while sliding the pump arm in before the rod slides back down. If you're not that quick with the reflexes, then there is a bolt in the front of the block adjacent to the fuel pump. Remove that one, find a longer bolt, and crank it in by hand so it's just snug against the push rod when it's in the up position. Install pump, remove long bolt, reinstall short bolt.

 

Yes, there's a fusible link in the main wire that feeds the fuse block from the starter-battery lead. If the link is blown you can buy replacement links at most parts stores.

 

Sorry I haven't gotten back - been a pretty busy weekend and week so far, but I'm SO excited to get your advice, and can't wait to tackle these things either this week this time or by the weekend.
I'll post some pics once the work is done and report with progress. Funny thing is I posted this on the local San Diego Camaro club site over a week or so ago and not a single response.

Greg

 

If the link is blown, find out why the link blew first before replacement.
However, I believe you may not be getting power from the red wire of the battery to the rest of the Camaro. Any lights?
If no lights, look at the horn relay drvr side of radiator support and remove the red wires and wire brush them and the bar, reassemble.

 

I would check for power on the purple wire first like Camarl 69 mentioned. Key forward it should be live. I don't think its energized in the run position though. That would run the starter constantly? Checking for continuity on both sides of the fuse able link would be cheaper than blindly replacing them. They're round white prices of plastic molded right on the red power wires BTW.

 

Good news, I got the fuel pump on today - had to take the hard line and run it a bit different as it didn't want to hook up to the back of the pump by going in front of the engine behind the alternator. I tried looking for where the red wire was going- the one off the battery ends on the wall behind the front right headlight. I also noticed the wire from the back of the alternator connecting there as well to charge the battery, but I didn't see any other red wire going anywhere.
On a whim, I had my son try and start the car anyway, and sure enough it turned over! After a few seconds I could see gas bubbling into the new filter, and next thing it fired right up. It sounded awesome! So we took her for a quick drive down to the local AMPM for some gas and rootbeers to celebrate. She ran so smooth all the way there and back.
When we got it back from the shop before changing the fuel pump and filter, it ran horribly, like it needed to be tuned. Wow, what a difference. Now to figure out the dash lights don't come on when we turn on the headlights- also noticed there's now a light that comes on in the footwell when we turn on the lights...

2 out of 3 ain't bad though.

 

The light in the "footwell" (?) may be a dashlamp that's fallen out of the instrument it was hooked to and is hanging from the leads. Do you possibly have aftermarket gauges that might have accessory lamps?
Try turning the dimmer adjustment on the dash lamps when the headlights are on. Sometimes the dimmer pot gets dirty or corroded and doesn't make contact. A few turns up and down with the lights on will usually make them flicker, and if they do then you just need a new headlight switch.