81 camaro rear end
#2
Nope. Not in stock form. It really is going to depend on power output and traction. The better it hooks the quicker you'll break it. Probably c-clips first. Thats almost never pretty. I've seen cars at the track spit the whole axel out wheel still bolted on, then hook in front of the christmas tree into the opposite wall. Then theres stock wheel studs, they aren't made for that stuff either. Or spit the gears right out of the cover. That happened to me snow plowing. Can a 10 bolt be build to handle it? For sure, C-clip eliminators, ford style bearing ends, and a rear cover that will preload the bearing caps. Not to mention a good diff, gears, axels, ect. Look at mosers web site they will build one to bolt right in.
#4
The C-clip elimnator kits are the outboard Ford or early Chevy bearing kit. They are one in the same. When you move the bearings to insdie the drum area it also has the benefit of then having a race on the axle, so no more trouble with wearing out the axle by running bearings right on it.
Moser axles are a good choice, but I'm running Dutchman axles since they're only 2 miles from my house. I'm also running the Strange C-clip eliminator (outboard bearing) kit, Richmond gears, and a set of Moroso wheel studs. Haven't found a need to go to the HD cover yet, but I think they're an excellent idea if you're drag racing a 10 bolt rear. Another good idea is to have the axle tubes welded to the thrid member if racing, as big engines and hard launches can spin a tube pretty easily if you hook up hard!
You'll also want to figure out which 10 bolt you've got. If it's an 8.5" it's the best, but an 8" is nearly as good. The little 10 bolts are not good choices for high HP engines and drag racing.
Moser axles are a good choice, but I'm running Dutchman axles since they're only 2 miles from my house. I'm also running the Strange C-clip eliminator (outboard bearing) kit, Richmond gears, and a set of Moroso wheel studs. Haven't found a need to go to the HD cover yet, but I think they're an excellent idea if you're drag racing a 10 bolt rear. Another good idea is to have the axle tubes welded to the thrid member if racing, as big engines and hard launches can spin a tube pretty easily if you hook up hard!
You'll also want to figure out which 10 bolt you've got. If it's an 8.5" it's the best, but an 8" is nearly as good. The little 10 bolts are not good choices for high HP engines and drag racing.
#6
No, if it's an 8.5" that has been properly built, then it's OK for that high HP. I wouldn't reccommend even building the smaller ones under 8".
#9
You need to empty your message box! Tried to answer your PM, but it says your box is full and wont accept any more PM's!
So I'll post the answer here:
You don't necessarily have to regear when upping the HP, unless the present gears are too high. High as in the lower the number (2.74) the higher the range, the higher the number(4.10) the lower the range.
There's a whole lot that will need to be done to a stock 10 bolt rearend if you plan to supercharge your engine. The gear ratio is just one thing, and should be in the 3:42 to 3:73 range. You also need a positraction rear carrier in the differential, or a locker in there, or you'll only drive one rear wheel and lose lots of traction.
If you get that much power to the stock axles it will most likely break one, so you should also consider replacement axles, and a kit to eliminate the c-clips inside the carrier, and move axle bearings out to the drum area.
All this will run around $1,000 if you can do the work, and the gear ratio is OK to begin with.
Here's a link to an article about beefing up a 10 bolt. You really don't need the cover at $160, and if you find a 10 bolt with the right gear ratio that will save another $170 for gears.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html
So I'll post the answer here:
You don't necessarily have to regear when upping the HP, unless the present gears are too high. High as in the lower the number (2.74) the higher the range, the higher the number(4.10) the lower the range.
There's a whole lot that will need to be done to a stock 10 bolt rearend if you plan to supercharge your engine. The gear ratio is just one thing, and should be in the 3:42 to 3:73 range. You also need a positraction rear carrier in the differential, or a locker in there, or you'll only drive one rear wheel and lose lots of traction.
If you get that much power to the stock axles it will most likely break one, so you should also consider replacement axles, and a kit to eliminate the c-clips inside the carrier, and move axle bearings out to the drum area.
All this will run around $1,000 if you can do the work, and the gear ratio is OK to begin with.
Here's a link to an article about beefing up a 10 bolt. You really don't need the cover at $160, and if you find a 10 bolt with the right gear ratio that will save another $170 for gears.
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html
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