T 350 removal - 67 V-8
Thanks Everett,
Yeah, it just "popped" right in. I'm wondering if the prior owner had it backwards because it was a royal pain to remove. I had to loosen the rear sub-frame mount a bit to get some clearance.
Now, it's all better. I (of course) lost the 2 mounting bolts for the cross member to trans mount. They seemed to have grown feet in the 3-4 days it took me to check this issue out. I'll just swing by and grab a couple today while I'm out. That will button up the bottom end. Drive shaft is already back in. I'll get the exhaust mounted tonight. I need to run some wires through the firewall for some AM gauges I bought. I know, I should have done it "before" installing the transmission. I just never know when my son might be available so when he just showed up last night, it was time to put the tranny in. =)
Yeah, it just "popped" right in. I'm wondering if the prior owner had it backwards because it was a royal pain to remove. I had to loosen the rear sub-frame mount a bit to get some clearance.
Now, it's all better. I (of course) lost the 2 mounting bolts for the cross member to trans mount. They seemed to have grown feet in the 3-4 days it took me to check this issue out. I'll just swing by and grab a couple today while I'm out. That will button up the bottom end. Drive shaft is already back in. I'll get the exhaust mounted tonight. I need to run some wires through the firewall for some AM gauges I bought. I know, I should have done it "before" installing the transmission. I just never know when my son might be available so when he just showed up last night, it was time to put the tranny in. =)
On original floorboard, crossmember will not come out because the two exhaust pipe humps interfere with floorboard.
A 2-8 lb sledge hammer on one side of crossmember hammering the c/member out takes care of removal as this action makes a path for better removal/install later in life by deforming the floorboard.
Only one side is needed for clearance.
However, this deformation is covered up by the front seat sheet metal pads inside.
Only you will know, plus a astute inspector, will know
A 2-8 lb sledge hammer on one side of crossmember hammering the c/member out takes care of removal as this action makes a path for better removal/install later in life by deforming the floorboard.
Only one side is needed for clearance.
However, this deformation is covered up by the front seat sheet metal pads inside.
Only you will know, plus a astute inspector, will know
I went ahead and loosened the rear sub-frame mount since they are new poly - worked like a charm.
Now doing the final hook up things and "should" be done under the car. New tubular upper & lower control arms are becoming more challenging, but all is good. New lowering springs seem to go right in. Just 1 side left to assemble, then add the big 13" brakes and the bottom end should be good to go.
Installing the carb tonight and wiring the starter motor, a few other things including my new AM gauges and then it will be time to fire up the beast.
Going to be gone Fri-Mon in Santa Cruz for G-daughters soccer tourney, so NO working on the car this weekend. Bummer. So close I can taste it. =)
Now doing the final hook up things and "should" be done under the car. New tubular upper & lower control arms are becoming more challenging, but all is good. New lowering springs seem to go right in. Just 1 side left to assemble, then add the big 13" brakes and the bottom end should be good to go.
Installing the carb tonight and wiring the starter motor, a few other things including my new AM gauges and then it will be time to fire up the beast.
Going to be gone Fri-Mon in Santa Cruz for G-daughters soccer tourney, so NO working on the car this weekend. Bummer. So close I can taste it. =)
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