Rear Axle

Old Feb 8, 2021 | 05:55 AM
  #41  
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Take the old bearing under the gear and use WD40 & a brake cylinder hone and adjust bearing inner race for a slip fit.
Add shims using the stamped numbers on pinion ( they are for setting pinion depth from axle centerline) and start there and look at the gear pattern and adjust shims
 
Old Feb 8, 2021 | 08:16 PM
  #42  
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^What said for the pinion.

With a solid spacer, you use shims to get the correct amount of pre-load on the bearings and the benefit here is if you go too far, you don't have to start over. A lot of rebuild kits include two crush sleeves for that reason. Crush sleeves aren't bad or anything, just a pain to get crushed but once they start to, it can be very easy to go to far.

As for the carrier shims, that is dependent on the axle. Some axles required the shims to be placed between the bearing and differential and some require between the bearing and housing. Whatever way yours was is most likely the correct way, iirc, 8.5 has the shims between the housing and bearing.. Measure the stack up of shims for each side and use that as a starting point to get your backlash.

I really wish all axles were set up like the corporate 14 bolt, Ford 9in and the Chrysler 8.25 and 8.75 (as well as others) that use adjusters to set backlash instead of shims. So much freaking easier.
 
Old Feb 24, 2021 | 04:55 AM
  #43  
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I am making slow but steady progress here.
Waiting for Carrier and Pinion Bearing Puller Clamshell Design tool from Jegs so I can hopefully remove those bearings from the carrier and pinion. Broke several pullers and they did not moved at all.
Then I will be able to alter those old bearings for a smooth fit and change shims more easily.
From Summit Racing, ordered a Ratech smart sleeve which seems to be easier to use than the regular crush sleeve (and cheaper than a solid/shim sleeve ,hope I won't regret that)

In the meantime I bought a Kindle book.

Chevy Differentials: How to Rebuild the 10- and 12-Bolt (English Edition)

I never read such an awkward book.
A lot of information but you learn how to install suspension in the middle of a chapter that deals nothing about suspension. Setting up the pinion depth is split in a least 3 different chapters. I used to read some parts of the book on the web and thought it would be nice but in the end it proved so difficult to find information that it's bringing more confusion.
Oh yes most of the references in the book point to the wrong pages or chapter.

Anyway I "guess" I got most of the stuff, waiting for some tools and will jump in the whole mess.
 
Old Feb 27, 2021 | 07:52 AM
  #44  
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I always used a bearing spreader similar to this with great luck,
https://www.eastwood.com/fairmount-t...8aAmvSEALw_wcB

However, the one I have access to is much heavier duty as it's a work unit and we use it to remove bearings 10 inches diameter plus some.

Interesting. Never knew Ratech made them. They're usually the manufacture I've seen for solid spacers. You'll have to let us know how that Ratech smart sleeve works. I've currently rebuilding a Dana 44HD (aka Dana 44A...Aluminum) but it doesn't look like they make one for that. Just solid spacers. Which figures because it's a goofball axle.
 
Old Mar 6, 2021 | 03:25 PM
  #45  
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I tried a split bearing puller as you shown but it do not slide underneath the bearing on the pinion. Hopefully the tool I am getting will slide...
 
Old Mar 7, 2021 | 07:14 AM
  #46  
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Weird. Never had that issue
 
Old Mar 14, 2021 | 07:36 AM
  #47  
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Still waiting for some parts and tools.
I read different subjects on the rear axles and saw that the 8.2 is not the sturdiest of rear axle by GM even though it can handle more than 400HP.
Now since I am replacing the differential with a Yukon LSD, I was wondering if I could claim that the "weakness" of the 8.2 has been solved or if the casing, wheels shafts, pinion and ring are still weak.
Asked differently, what is weak in this set up?
 
Old Mar 15, 2021 | 05:31 AM
  #48  
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Tapered axle
 
Old Mar 15, 2021 | 06:10 AM
  #49  
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?????
 
Old Mar 27, 2021 | 06:54 AM
  #50  
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Received the bearting puller and it worked. Bearings are now modified so they slide freely to allow for testing and shim selections.
I have a concern regarding the crush sleeve.
A long one was originally on the pinion.
The kit from Yukon came with the same one and a shorter one. (3rd pic)
Now the smart sleeve from Ratech is short.
If I slide it on the pinion, it bears on a tapered section, not on a firm shoulder. (Red arrow)
So I am not sure on what to use there.

I also get a spare nut to make the testings. I removed the small dent that was punched on the threads to lock it but the nut still do not thread on the pinion. Some steel get shaved off the nut. Is it normal and part of the locking features of the nut? Both thread looks the same (16 Tpi) and didn't want to damage the pinion thread.
Asked Yukon but should not get a reply before monday now.



 

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