I checked again and I think that should I be able to put the sleeve all the way to the stop in the axle, that would not leave enough room to slide the seal in place. In fact it should be even with the shaft's end.
I think that the whole sleeve/bearing/seal has been modified or maybe even a new part designed and installed.

Now I found this video and I think it describes what I need :

 

If you use the type of bearing in the video, the bearing and seal is one unit, so there is no need to use a separate seal. The only time you should use these if, as stated in the video, there is significant wear on the bearing surface of the axle. Otherwise, a separate bearing and seal will suffice and is cheaper.

Also, I'm pretty sure the difference size in bearings is between truck and car axles, but I could be wrong.

 

We checked the condition of the wheel shafts and they are not so bad; I have been told that the "repair" unit with bearing and seal in one piece are not efficient so I am upgrading back to the original bearing and seal (at least I already have the seals!)
I will change the open differential to a Limited Slip Differential to take care of the wear and upgrade from a "weak" 10 bolts 8.2". The truth being that the cost of an LSD is not excessive comparing to changing everything in the original differential and ending with an upgrade.

I guess the Posi Lock is GM's own LSD right? But on what Camaro do you find it and it what axle sizes? What cars/axles came with an open differential?

 

Posi and Gov-lock are GMs two LSD. Personally, I would go aftermarket. Much better units for cost. True tracks are very good LSDs and not too expensive. Not sure if they make any thing for the 8.2. G80 is the RPO code for GM LSD units. Both GM 8.5 and 12 bolts came with them. Basically anything that was a factory hi performance will have a LSD.

 

I finally received the LSD from Yukon (through QuickPerformance)
Also got all the bearings, crush sleeve, new wheel shafts, ...
Where can I find a stupid proof explanation of how to install the LSD or rather adjust with the shims for side to side adjustment and how to settle the crush sleeve.
Saw different videos on the web and am gathering as much information as I can for now.

 

Setting up a differential is something best left to a pro shop.

 

Personally, I would ditch the crush sleeve and put in a solid pinion space. Soooooo much easier.


This is a good video. It's a 12 bolt, but the same process. But a garage is best because there are tools that most home mechanics don't have.

 

Thank you for the video.
I have a rather well equiped garage, with a lift, press, ... Getting more tools as I need them. And got some help from knowledgable friends. Even though my best friend, mecanic helper and mentor and road trips chap just died yesterday morning !
Rear axle if currently out of the car, so working on the differential in the best possible conditions.
As for the solid pinion spacer, I planned to order it with the LSD but looks like I forgot ! Will see if I get it or use crush sleeve....

 

On the original differential, I had 1 large shim (about .235" thick) over the bearing on each side.
From the videos I can see, some are putting shims below the bearings to adjust for differential preload, others seems to add the shims over the bearings. So they first press the bearings in place and adjust over it.
In the other case, they use dummy oversized ID bearings to try different shims.
Did both way of doing it are correct?

 

I am not sure to understand how you adjust the solid pinion spacer.
I understand the crush sleeve that you crush until you get the required drag, but with the solid spacer, how do you determine the shim size, is it a trial and error, but then have to slam the pinion out of the front bearing between each try?
This video is also helpfull
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q...F9&FORM=VDQVAP